444 MANUAL OF TROPICAL AND SUBTROPICAL FRUITS 



little known. Since it is more tropical in its requirements than 

 the umkokolo, it is not suitable for cultivation in the Medi- 

 terranean basin, except perhaps in the most favored situations. 



In growth and habit the plant is less robust than its congener, 

 although it reaches about the same ultimate height, 15 to 20 

 feet. The branches are slender, often drooping under the weight 

 of their fruit, and the thorns are long and sharp, but not so 

 formidable as those of the umkokolo. The leaves are lanceolate 

 or oval in outline, acute, entire or subserrate, and 2 to 4 inches 

 long. The fruit is of the same size and form as that of the 

 umkokolo, but maroon-purple in color and more velvety on 

 the surface. The purplish pulp is sweet and luscious, with a 

 flavor resembling that of the English gooseberry, a fruit which 

 the ketembilla suggests so strongly in appearance and character 

 as to give rise to the common name Ceylon-gooseberry. Aberia 

 Gardnerii, Clos., is a botanical synonym. 



The plant does not withstand drought as well as the umkokolo, 

 and is injured by temperatures considerably above 20. While 

 it succeeds in southern Florida, the climate of most parts of 

 southern California has usually proved too cold for it. It likes 

 plenty of moisture, both in the atmosphere and in the soil, 

 and under proper conditions bears enormous crops of its attrac- 

 tive fruits. 



The distribution of the sexes is the same in this species as in 

 the umkokolo, and it is, therefore, necessary to insure the 

 proximity of staminate and pistillate plants if fruit is desired. 

 It has been reported that isolated plants of both species are 

 sometimes fruitful, which suggests that they may in occasional 

 instances produce perfect flowers and not require cross-polli- 

 nation. If plants of such character are found, they should be 

 propagated by budding or grafting, since they would be of con- 

 siderable value. P. J. Wester reports that shield-budding is 

 successful. He says: "Use petioled, preferably spineless, 

 not too old budwood with tomentum still present ; cut buds an 



