Pruning the Vine. 119 



outer bud ; this is a good rule in all winter pruning. The 

 author's remark with regard to cutting when the wood is froz- 

 en, deserves attention. Most of our vine-dressers practice 

 trimming in any mild weather during the winter, whether in 

 February or March ; but after the sap has started, or is about 

 to start, the vine will bleed profusely. This will sometimes 

 occur in mild weather, after fall pruning, also.] 



METHOD OF CUTTING THE SHOOTS AND LARGE 

 STEMS. The wood of the vine being spongy, and the 

 sap very abundant, the shoots must be cut 

 four or six inches above the last of the re- 

 served eyes [Fig. 23] ; for, as the wood 

 dries up to the distance of a few lines be- 

 low the cut, the last eye would /requently rp IG 2 ,-i 

 be destroyed, or would, at least, suffer very Mode of 

 much, if the cut were made immediately Pruning. 

 above that eye. The cut must be made sloping, and on 

 the side opposite to the eye, so that if the plant is in a 

 vertical, or upright position, and the vine begins to bleed, 

 the flow of the sap may not injure the eye. 



The large stems must also be cut in the same man- 

 ner, so that the wounds may heal up more easily. All 

 stems that need removal, should be cut close to the 

 stock, and all such as need to be shortened, must be cut 

 close to the new shoots. Whenever any considerable 

 scars are made on the vine, it will be well to cover them 

 over with grafting wax. If this is not done, they heal 

 up slowly the wood is injured by the action of the air, 

 and the life of the plant is shortened in consequence. 



PRUNING INSTRUMENTS. In the southern and south- 

 western regions, where the wood of the vine is strong 

 and vigorous, a sort of bill is used, the shape of which 



