London to John O 1 Groat's. 187 



the villagers ; nineteen-twentieths of whom appeared to 

 be agricultural laborers. The entertainment proffered 

 on the sign over the door was evidently limited to the 

 tap-room. Indeed, this and the great, low-jointed 

 and brick-floored kitchen opening into it, seemed to 

 constitute all the living or inhabited space in the 

 building. I saw, at a glance, that the chance for a 

 bed was faint and small ; and I asked Landlord Rufus 

 for one doubtingly, as one would ask for a ready-made 

 pulpit or piano at a common cabinet-maker's shop. 

 He answered me clearly enough before he spoke, and 

 he spoke as if answering a strange and half-impertinent 

 question, looking at me searchingly, as if he suspected 

 I was quizzing him. His " No ! " was short and 

 decided ; but, seeing I was honest and earnest in the 

 inquiry, he softened his negative with the explanation 

 that their beds were all full. It seemed strange to me 

 that this should be so in a building large enough for 

 twenty, and I hesitated hopefully, thinking he might 

 remember some small room in which he might put me 

 for the night. To awaken a generous thought in him 

 in this direction, I intimated how contented I would 

 be with the most moderate accommodation. But it was 

 in vain. The house was full, and I must seek for 

 lodging elsewhere. There were two or three other 

 public houses in the village that might take me in. I 



