London to John O 1 Groat's. 289 



walks were all laid with asphalte, which presented a 

 new and striking contrast to the gorgeous borders and 

 the vivid green of the cleanly shaven grass. Many of 

 the little graves were made in nests of geraniums and 

 other modest and sweet-eyed stars of hope. 



Next day I had a very enjoyable walk in a north- 

 westerly direction to Chesterfield. On the way, called 

 in at a blacksmith's shop, and had a long talk with the 

 smith-in-chief on matters connected with his trade. 

 The " custom work " of such shops in country villages 

 in England is like that in ours fifty years ago 

 embracing the greatest variety of jobs. Articles now 

 made with us in large manufacturing establishments 

 at a price which would starve a master and his 

 apprentice to compete with, are hammered out in these 

 English shops on a single anvil. On comparing notes 

 with this knight of the hammer, I learned a fact I had 

 not known before. His price for horse-shoeing varied 

 according to the size of the hoof, just as our leather- 

 shoemakers charge according to the foot. On taking 

 leave of him he intimated, in the most frank and 

 natural way in the world, that, in our exchange of 

 information, the balance was in his favor, and that 

 I could not but think it fair to pay him the diffe- 

 rence. I looked at him first inquiringly and doubtingly, 

 embarrassed with the idea that I had not understood 



