London to John Cf Groat's. 291 



and for that reason they will only be kept as curiosities 

 in these northern latitudes. And they are curiosities 

 of animal life, heightened to a wonderment when 

 placed side by side with the black Galloways, or those 

 British breeds of cattle which have no horns at all. I 

 should not wonder, however, if this large, cream-colored 

 stock from Spain should be introduced here to cross 

 with the Durhams, Devons, and Herefords. 



When about half-way from Mansfield to Chester- 

 field, a remarkable change came over the face of the 

 landscape. The mosaic work of the hill-sides and 

 valleys showed more green squares than before. Three- 

 fourths of the fields were meadow or pasture, or in 

 mangel or turnips. There was but one here and there 

 in wheat or other grain. The road beneath and the 

 sky above began to blacken, and the chimneys of 

 coal pits to thicken. Sooty-faced men, horses and 

 donkeys passed with loaded carts; and all the pre- 

 monitory aspects of the "black country" multiplied 

 as I proceeded. I do not recollect ever seeing a land- 

 scape change so suddenly in England. 



Chesterfield is an intelligent looking town, evidently 

 growing in population and prosperity. It has its own 

 unique speciality; almost as strikingly distinctive as 

 that of Strasburg or Pisa. This is the most ambiguous 

 and mysterious church spire in the world. It would 

 u '2 



