London to John O'Groafs. 383 



they are pastured will not rent above one or two Eng- 

 lish shillings per acre ; and a flock even of 1,000 requires 

 a vast range, as may be indicated by the reply of a 

 Scotch farmer to an English one, on being asked by 

 the latter, " How many sheep do you allow to the 

 acre?" "Ah, mon," was the answer, "that's nae 

 the way we count in the Highlands ; it's how monie 

 acres to the sheep." 



At about two p.m., the showers becoming less fre- 

 quent, I set out with the hope of reaching Inverness 

 before night. The wind was high, the road muddy, 

 or dirty, as the English call that condition ; and the 

 rain frequently compelled me to seek shelter in some 

 wayside cottage, or under the fir-trees that were 

 planted in groves on each side at narrow intervals. 

 The walking was heavy and slow in face of the fre- 

 quent showers and a strong gale from the north-east, 

 so that I was exceedingly glad to reach an inn within 

 four miles of Inverness, where I promised myself 

 comfortable lodgings for the night. It was a rather 

 large, but comfortless-looking house, evidently con- 

 centrating all its entertainment for travellers in the 

 tap-room. After considerable hesitation, the landlady 

 consented to give me bed and board ; and directed 

 " the lassie " to make a fire for me in a large and very 

 respectable room on the second floor. I soon began 



