22 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



November, 



Garden Notes From Lyndale. 



BY A. H. E. 



By a judicious use of late blooming hardy 

 flowers the borders at Lyndale are yet full of 

 attraction at the date of this writing, October 

 12th. The same cannot be said of aU borders 

 of hardy plants one may meet at this season. 



At the head of such late bloomers I place 

 without hesitation the Japan Anemones or 

 Wind flowers. They are satisfactory plants in 

 every way, succeeding with no more atten- 

 tion than Paeonies and similar easily grown 

 things need. Of two late sorts growing 

 here, one has rose-colored flowers and the 

 other pure white ones. The flowers are 

 several inches across in size and well borne 

 above the plants, which in themselves are 

 among the finest in the garden. In coloring 

 and texture the blooms are not excelled by 

 those of any other cla,ss ; and there is a con- 

 spicuous yellow center to each that serves 

 to beautifully set ofl" the flowers. Any of 

 your readers who do not have these plants U 

 will be safe in putting them down among 

 their next purchases in this line. 



* * * 



Our other decidedly late hardy bloomers 

 are the Autumn Monk's-hoods, with beauti- 

 ful lai'ge blue flowers; Helianthus Maxi- 

 miliani, a tall, vigorous-growing perennial 

 Sunflower, that only comes in bloom after 

 all others of the same genus are done ; the 

 Closed and the White-flowered Gentians 

 and the Autumn Crocuses. To this list 

 may be added such late bloomers, still giv- 

 ing a good show of flowers, as the Perennial 

 Phloxes, Yellow Chamomile, Double Peren- 

 nial Sunflower, Rose Mallow, Snap-dragons, 

 Asters, and the late-blooming annuals, es- 

 pecially the Marigolds. 

 *** 



My way of locating these late bloomers 

 had to do with the aid they now give to 

 general attractiveness. For instance, there 

 is a strong clump of the White Auemone 

 refei'red to located prominently in the first 

 part of the border, the eye catching it from 

 the moment one enters the gate. In front 

 of this group there are some of the low- 

 growing Colchicums. Then farther along 

 an outward bend of the border holds a 

 clump of the Rose-colored Anemone, and 

 still farther down there is a mass larger 

 than either of these of the matchless white 

 variety already referred to. Taking these 

 bright kinds as centers, the other late bloom- 

 ers are brought more or less closely in eon- 

 junction with them in masses, with also 

 some light scatterings of the plants more 

 remote. I really took more pains in arrang- 

 ing this late class than any other, for the 

 very fact that at this time there is such a 

 general scarcity of bloom in the border, and 

 this I am anxious they shall in part make up for. 

 It has always been a hobby of mine to work for 

 as complete a garden as possible at the extremes 

 of the season, namely in the early spring and 

 late autumn, when at best the garden is look- 

 ing none too well. 



* * * 



It is undisputed that Parsnips, delicious veg- 

 etables that they are, when well cared for, are 

 better for remaining in the ground until used, 

 than to be lifted in the fall and stored. But 

 they are wanted all through the winter, and if 

 one has to dig them from frozen ground he 

 finds a dreadfully hard task. I get around 

 this for providing those needed in our family, 

 and yet I leave them out until used. 



In the first place I sow Parsnips in beds of 

 three rows, at 1.5 inches inches between the 

 rows, bringing the three rows within a space 

 30 inches or a little over in width. This space 

 then in November I cover with leaves or straw 

 a foot thick, on top of which I string along my 

 three feet by six feet hot bed shutters. While 

 such protection does not keep the roots free 

 from frost, it does prevent hard freezing, and 

 then I am able every few weeks, during win- 



ter, to dig up a small fresh supply of the 

 vegetable with but little trouble. 

 * * * 

 The propagation by cuttings of shrubs 

 and such things needed in gardening is one 

 of my delights, being easily done, and to me 

 there is a great satisfaction in seeing young 

 plants in their line coming along. So I have 

 a spot of light sandy loam which I call my 

 nursery, and in this I always have more shi-ubs, 



earth firmly against the cuttings, as making 

 the rooting more certain to succeed ; usually 

 there is but little loss, and this representing 

 no material outlay, in such propagation. 



THE GOLDEN-BANDED LILY AS A POT PLANT. 



etc. , coming on than I can actually find use for. 



Among kinds which I find may be increased 

 readily in this way are the Currant, Goose- 

 berry, Grape, Qunice, Mulberry, with few ex- 

 ceptions all of the flowering shrubs, and such 

 trees as the Willow, Poplar, Elasagnus, Birch 

 and so on. Many others can be raised from 

 cuttings, but not well, by this easy course. 



Just before winter I make the cuttings, using 

 as a general thing a foot in length of well 

 ripened young growth for each one. In trim- 

 ming them I am particular to cut quite close 

 to a bud both at the top and bottom. I do not 

 plant the cutting directly out in the fall, 

 although this could be done were they not 

 liable to suff'er from being displaced and hurt 

 by freeziug; instead I tie them in bunches, 

 each kind by themselves, and bury these deeply 

 under a mound of earth for the winter. I 

 think there is some advantage in inverting 

 them, that is, having the butts upwards during 

 winter. Then in the spring as early as the 

 soil works up dry the cuttings are set out in the 

 "nursery," placing in trenches at an angle of 

 45°, with the top eye just even with the surface. 

 At that time I am very careful to pack the 



On the Cultivation of Lilies. 



Our engraving represents the famous Golden- 

 banded Japan Lily, Lilium duration, growing 

 in an ornamental pot. By procuring plump, 

 healthy bulbs of this or of any other sorts, 

 including all the more delicate ones, it is 

 almost as easy to have them bloom in this 

 way as it is to succeed with the Tulip or 

 Hyacinth thus. But while the latter are 

 best adapted for winter bloom, the Lilies, 

 being summer-flowering bulbs, should in the 

 main be relied upon by amateurs for bloom 

 in the summer or in the spring. 



We introduce our subject in this way be- 

 cause almost all flower growers have a desire 

 to raise some of the finer Lilies, and by pot 

 culture they may at least be sure of one crop 

 of flowers from their bulbs, which is more 

 '\ thau can be said of such kinds when they 

 i I are planted in the garden in the way Lilies 

 are too often planted. For this the bulbs 

 should be set in the pots in November, using 

 for soil decayed fibrous turf and di-y cow 

 manure as the main ingredients, to which 

 may be added some leaf earth, sharp sand 

 and crushed charcoal. The pots or recep- 

 tacles should be of ample size as to the earth 

 they will hold, and this must be underlaid 

 with plenty of clean potsherds for drainage. 

 Put a handful of dry sand over each bulb, 

 having them when done fairly covered. Set 

 the pots in a cellar or coal-shed, but give no 

 water until spring. In May they should 

 start up fine stui-dy shoots, and the culture 

 should be mainly in the open air after this. 

 Be very careful in watering, as stagnant 

 water at the roots is a chief enemy to Lilies. 

 But after all we must expect our greatest 

 success with Lilies in good assortment in 

 our gardens. And this is possible if the 

 culture be right — a matter too rarely seen. 

 The thing of first importance in Lily culture 

 in the garden is perfect drainage of the bed: 

 moisture about the bulbs in winter being 

 a most prolific cause of failure with them- 

 This is why, in speaking of the more delicate 

 .sorts, we stai-ted off with pot culture, for 

 by this too much moisture is easily obviated. 

 The soil of the Lily bed should be rich 

 and friable to a depth of a foot if possible. 

 As a rule the bulbs are not planted deep 

 enough; they delight in the coolness that 

 comes from being covered at least six inches 

 over, if this reaches eight inches all the 

 better. For providing fertility rank ma- 

 nure is to be avoided; it produces decay 

 and disease; the manure should be well 

 rotted. The addition of leaf mold, even to the 

 extent of one-third of the soil, is of great value. 

 Transplanting is best done in October or 

 November, setting the bulbs in clumps of 

 about three each. The clumps should not, 

 excepting in small growers, be nearer than from 

 34 to 30 inches apai-t, as the planting should be 

 done with a view to not often moving them. 

 On the approach of winter a coat of leaves or 

 other litter over the bulbs will be of benefit. 



A satisfactory way of growing the more deli- 

 cate Lilies is in tubs or ample sized boxes, in 

 which good drainage is provided. These should 

 be large enough to hold at least a half bushel 

 of soil, the idea being to have them form per- 

 manent clumps here. The tubs may be moved 

 to a dry cellar during winter, where the bulbs 

 will keep over to perfection. In the summer 

 they may go to the lawn or veranda. 



A Fruit Picker with a Delivery Tube. 



Of the various fruit pickers in use, handy as 

 they are for reaching a few specimen fruits, 

 etc., they are still, as to general use, open to 

 several objections. If made to gather but a 



