1887. 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



63 



not distasteful to the eye one made of lime, soot 

 and clay, stirred up with water can be recommended. 

 In applying work tlie brush well, that the liquid 

 may get into every crevice. 



Mmn 



VEGETABLE GARDEN. 



Frames containing Cabbage, Cauliflower or Let- 

 tuce plants to be well aired daily when the temper- 

 ature is above the freezing point; below this, no 

 harm can come if they are kept closed for some days. 



Hot-beds. It must be seen to in time that fresh 

 horse manure for these is gathered. Such should 

 lay in a dry place where there is no danger of be- 

 coming water-soaked. It must not lay in deep 

 heaps, whereby free heating is induced. Some rails 

 laid up slanting where the manure is deposited, to 

 prevent close settling, will aid in this. 



Mice are often troublesome in frames, pits, root 

 cellars and the like, now that their food is scarce. 

 Fix up some " pills '' for them, by soaking Peas in 

 water until swelled, then roll in arsenic and bury 

 just below the surface in some light earth. They 

 will take such and leave the plants, and it is better 

 that they should. 



Straw Mats will be needed where there are sash 

 beds. A good size is to make them the width of a 

 sash and a half, and of a length to hang down half 

 a foot at top and bottom of sash over edges of bed. 



Sowing of garden seeds is begun in the Southern 

 tier of States usually in this month, thence pro- 

 ceeding Northward as the sun rises higher. Vege- 

 tables may roughly be classed as hardy and tender, 

 and regard must be had to the distinction in what- 

 ever climate or State gardening is done. The har- 

 dier class embraces Peas. Onions, Leeks, Parsnips, 

 Parsley, Salsify, Lettuce, Cabbage. Cauliflower, 

 Cress, Spinach, Beets, Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli, 

 Celery, Potatoes. Radishes, Turnip, Sage, Aspara- 

 gus, etc., and these may, without regard to the 

 region, be sown as early as the soil admits of being 

 worked up mellow. The more tender kinds, such 

 as Beans, Sweet Corn, Cucumbers, Melons, Squashes 

 Tomatoes, and most kinds of Herbs, can be sown 

 with safety little if any before Cherry -blossoming 

 time, whether North or South. With these points in 

 mind, there cannot be much danger in going amiss 

 as to this matter of suitable time for sowing. 



Squashes of the Hubbard class may, in a dry 

 place, having a temperature between 40** and 60°, 

 be kept safely until April or May. A cellar is too 

 damp. If frost threatens blanket them. 



Tools. Put in order. New ones that are needed 

 may be made or ordered in the winter''s leisure. 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER 

 GLASS. 



Cucumbers. Their culture in winter requires a 

 heat of 70*^ at night and 80" in the day, with some- 

 what above this in the sun. The plants should not 

 be encouraged too much with stimulants, unless 

 they are strong. Train the leadei-s to their entire 

 length before stopping, then stop all side shoots 

 at the second joint 



Graperies now being started should not have 

 above 55° uf heat at the outset, and be well syringed 

 twice a day to assist the breaking of the buds. As 

 the young growth appears, enough air must be ad- 

 niitt^ to prevent the growth from beiug weak and 

 the foliage thin. Advantage should be taken of 

 mild days to air the structure freely. 



Mushrooms. The nearer the temperature of 

 bearing beds can be kept to 60° the better. A steady 

 temperature will greatly prolong the bearing of the 

 beds. Manure should be saved up for new beds. 



Rhubarb under glass must be kept well watered. 



Strawberries, iu forcing, must not be allowed to 

 overbear, or the fruit will be small: a moderate 

 number of large berries are much more satisfactoi y 

 than any number of small ones. Apply the syringe 

 to keep down red spider. For the best results 

 avoid both drouth and over-watering at the root. 



The Winter Meeting of the West-ern New York 

 Horticultural Society will be held in Rochester, 

 N. Y., commencing on Wednesday, Jan. "'itb, at 

 11 o'clock, a. m. It promises to be one of much 

 interest. Papei*s by such prominent horticulturists 

 as J. J. Thomas, Dr. E. L. Sturtevant, Dr. .J. A. 

 Linter,C. A.Green, J. H. Butler, Prof. E. S. Goffand 

 othera will be read and discussed. Besides these, 

 there is a long list of questions prepared to l»e dis- 

 cussed. A general invitation is given to all who 

 Lire interested in Horticulture and Fruit Culture to 

 attend the meeting and participate in the proceed- 

 ings. A circular setting forth full particulars may 

 be had by addressing Secretary P. C. Reynolds, 

 Rochester, N. Y. 



TTi/j* being the People's Paper, it is open to all their 

 Inquiries bearing on gardening. 



Repliet* to Inquiries are earnestly requested from 

 readers. In aiistoering suoh give the number, your 

 locality and name, the latter not for publicntion, unless 

 you desire. H'rite «nly on one side of the paper. 



180. Eupatoriums, etc. Will some one tell me 

 if Eupatoriimis and Stevias will live in the cellar 

 aft^r they are through blooming, and should they 

 be cut back then, or in the spring? Lide, Peru, hid. 



IW. Calla Culture. Is pruning away the suck- 

 ers good for Callas? Mine send up suckers, which 

 must take nourishment from the plant and cause 

 less flowers. L. C. D., Grt-at Bend, Pa. 



v.i]. Fall Bloom on Strawberries. My Miners 



and Cuniberlands bloomed abundantly in Septem- 

 ber. I picked the flower stems all off Was this 

 right, and how will ne.xt year's croji be affected? 



102. Early Covering of Strawberries. Will it 

 harm them to have been covered with cut straw be- 

 fore the ground froze? I put it on November 14. 

 Mrs. \. P., Poughquag, N. Y. 



193. Strawberries and Gregg Raspberries. I 



have not pruned my piece since a year ago in the 

 fall. What is the best treatment you can suggest? 

 Will it do to trim Gregg Raspberries that have not 

 been pruned since July? C. F., OUn, Iowa. 



194. Boxwood for Hedges. If you have not got 

 the plants please tell me where I can get them. I 

 want to make a Hedge around my cemeterj- lot. 

 Will they answer? J as. E. Kevtl. 



195. Knots on Prune Boots. On my trees 

 budded on Apricot stocks some of these are pres- 

 ent, most of them solid and green, others are on the 

 decay and have a fungoid appearance. Some of 

 the trees have died. What can be done ? W. S. 

 Vancoi'ver, Wash. Ter. 



196 Autumn-bearing Raspberries. I have a 

 Raspberry plant that bore in early summer, and 

 now (Oct. 23) is full of bloom and berries. It did 

 the same thing last year, and beats all I ever saw. 

 Is this something new ? J.N. A., Lebanon, Mo. 



197. Peach Yellows. Please describe so that 

 I and others may know when our trees have it. 



19H Waterloo Peach. Does this resemble the 

 Amsden June lis to time of ripening, tast^^, etc. ? 



199. English Walnuts. Where can one get the 

 trees, and how long before they should bear ? F. 

 M. B., Ilia, Wash. Ter. 



200. Azalea Blasting. Please tell me why my 

 large Lady Easthope Azalea budded profusely, but 

 lately the buds have become dry and brown and 

 little leaf shoots have started beside the buds. Has 

 it been kept too dry, or did the frost touch it before 

 it was brought in ?" Or. isn't the pot large enough ? 



201. Hydrangea Budding in tbe Cellar. One of 

 my plants down cellar has a bud cluster on it Is 

 it "time to bring it up ? It bloomed last season. 



202. Sunlight for Palms, etc. Do Seaforthia 

 Paln\s specially need sun ? The leaves at tip are so 

 apt to turn brown. Does a Jerusalem Cherry need 

 sun and much water ? New England, 



203. Trees for the Atlantic Coast. What would 

 you recommend as the quickest growing and best 

 shade trees to set out around m}- house, standing 

 about one-fourth of a mile back from the wat«r? 

 The soil is very stony, and from nine to twelve 

 inches deep, overlaying sand chiefly. Also what 

 kind of fnut would do best under these conditions. 

 ,Jno. C. North Easthnm. .Va.s.'J. 



204 Protecting Large Trees. The Peach winter- 

 kills badly here. I have some too big to burv- 

 How can I best winter them ? C. P. D., Beda, Ills. 



205. Saw-dust for Mulching. I have plenty of 

 saw-dust handy - How will it do to mulch trees, 

 Grape-vines, Currants, etc? L. C.^.,Teaua)ray,W.T. 



206. Starting Milla and Freesia Bulbs. In 



planting I covered the bulbs only in part and keep 

 them in a cool, dark place for the roots to develop. 

 Is that right ? Mrs J. C. Htbeell, Lee Co.^ III. 



207. Cardinal Flower. For three years in suc- 

 cession 1 have brought home clumps and set them 

 out in a moist, partly shaded place,protecting with 

 covering in the winter, and have every time lost my 

 plants. How can I secure it? S. T.. Brookli/)i,N. V'. 



REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 



170. Perennials for Continual Bloom. Kor 60 

 of these, including bulbs, and covering a period in 

 the year from Rlarch or April until October, we 

 would name the following as being most excellent : 

 Eranthis hyemalls. Hellebores, Lily of the Valley, 

 Snowdrops, Adonis vernalis. Crown Imperials, Tu- 

 lips, Hyacinths, Narcissus, Pansies, Violets, Bleed- 

 ing Heart, Bloodroot, Hardy Candytuft, Blue Bells, 

 Forget-me-nots, Low Phloxes. Lung%vorts. Ragged 

 Robin, Saxifragas, Woodruff, Columbines, Irises, 

 Peeonies, Periwinkle, Pinks, Poppies, Spireeas, 



Star of Bethlehem, Thrift. Achillea. AconitumB, 

 Asclepias tuberosa, Day Lilies, Plantain Lilies. 

 Delphiniums, Lychnis, Monarda. Lilies, Perennial 

 Pea. Sweet Williams, Yuccas, Spiranthes, Holly- 

 hocks, Upright Phloxes. Centaureamontana, Hardy 

 Asters. Echinacea. Eupatoriums, Rudbeckias, Sun- 

 flowers. White Plantain Lilv, Autumn Aconite. 

 Japan Anemone. Gentian. Sedum Sieboldi, Colcbi- 

 cum autumnalis, CEnothera, Vernonia. 



172. Cemetery Plants. If V. P. will plant any 

 or all of the following list he no doubt will be 

 pleased, as they are in nearly every case handsome, 

 both in foliage and flower, and of dwarf growth : 

 Dutch Bulbs. Woodruff. White and Blue Periwinkle. 

 Whit^ Plantain Lily (Funkia). Sanguinaria Cana- 

 densis, Lily of the Valley, Japan Lilies, White 

 Phlox, Japan Anemone. Forget-me-nots. Jas. D. 

 Hudson. Ingham Co.y Mich. 



1S7. Red Spider on Window Plants. Red 

 spider thrives in a warm dry atmosphere, but de- 

 tests moisture. Ordinarily the living room suits 

 them well, because of the former conditions here 

 prevailing; if the sprinkling remedj[ seems to fail, 

 it is because it is not sufficiently persisted in Wash- 

 ing the leaves with a sponge several times daily 

 would be better and should dispel them. 



195. Knots on Prune Roots. A strong coating 

 of soap-suds or whitewash applied twice a year will 

 act as a preventive. A. M. Purdy. 



196. Autumn-bearing Raspberries. It is a 

 very common occurrence to find Red Raspberries 

 bearing the second crop in the fall. As a rule such 

 are of no practical value. The season has much to 

 do with the second crop, whether heavv or light. 

 Some kinds are more disposed this way than others. 

 In Black Caps the best Fall bearing one we have 

 grown is the Lum's Ever-bearing; of the red or pur- 

 ple, Catawissa. A. M. Purdy. 



155. One cause of non-blooming or blasting of 

 buds of Narcissus is moving them after growth 

 has begun. One would suppose that all knew when 

 to move bulbs, but I meet oft^'U with those who 

 move in spring with other plants. Sometimes they 

 never bud again; sometimes bud only to blast. F. 

 E. Briggs, La Center, Wa^h. Ter. 



176. Honey Dew. By some its origin is attrib- 

 uted to insects, and by others it is held that insects 

 have no agency in the matter. It would appear 

 that both parties are correct. That plant lice or 

 aphides do excrete a saccharine liquid is a well es- 

 tablished fact. On the other hand, it seems to be 

 equally well established that sometimes this liquid 

 is exuded by the leaves of trees, without any insect 

 being concerned in the operation. What causes the 

 plant to throw off sugar in this manner, and always 

 upon the upper surface of the leaves, is a question 

 needing further investieratlon. Dry weather is most 

 favorable to its production. It has been observed 

 to reappear upon the same tree several times in 

 succession. T. B. 



304. Protecting large Peacb Trees. We know 

 of no way to protect large full grown trees more 

 than to mulch heavy under tree as far out as the 

 branches extend, and to set around the body and 

 cover limbs as much as possible with plenty of corn- 

 stalks, leaving them there till spring A. M. Purdv. 



205. Saw-dust for Mulching. It must not be put 

 on small plants fresh or new. but must be thorough- 

 ly rotted. The best way to use it is first as bedding 

 to horses or cows. It may be piled up aroimd trees 

 that are half to full grown, even in a preen state. 

 It is well to scatter say a half bushel of salt to every 

 large wagon-load of saw-dust. A. M. Pltidy. 



157. Raspberries Failing. There is a disease 

 among mine, and also reported elsewhere, that I 

 have battled against for several years. I call it 

 Black Blight. It resembles the Pear Blight, but is 

 sure death if not cleaned out. The Yellow Rust is 

 quite different, and as this can be readily seen, dug 

 out and burned, it may soon be disposed of. The 

 Black Blight shows itself first by the center stalk 

 turning black at the tip on young plants in August 

 or .September. If left to stand over winter it will 

 increase; the stalks turn black orstreaked I know 

 of no remedy but to cut off on the young bushes all 

 the dead tips well down on the live part and bum 

 the clippings. If it advances far there is no remedy 

 but to dig up and bum. It will spread rapidly, and 

 if the season is wet and growth rapid, as on the 

 strong growing kinds like the Gregg, Ohio and 

 Mammoth Cluster, the damage will be large. With 

 me the Shaffers is entirely free of this blight; the 

 Tyler nearly so. Chas. Mills, Fairmoinif, N. Y. 



169 Raspberries Changing. Do they mix 

 by being planted near together? We answer no. 

 only by allowing plants to run and grow together 

 so that they cannot be divided. The only way the 

 fruit will mix or change into a new sort "is through 

 sowing seed, and seedlings from these will bediffer- 

 ent, as a rule, from the old parent sort. A. M P. 



•^i. Starting Milla and Freesia Bulbs. Id 



both instances the bulbs would do better for being 

 covered at least one and one-half inches above their 

 tips. We prefer not to put them into the dark, like 

 Hyacinths, but keep them in a shady place keeping 

 a temperature of not over 50°." and the soil 

 rather dry until the leaves appear, when botli 

 water and light should be increased. 



156. Gazania Culture. These plants propagate 

 and succeed with the most ordinary care, such as 

 would suit Geraniums. About the same heat also. 



