lOO 



POPULAR GARDENING, 



March, 



and fearing I should make some mistake as to this 

 I apply to you for aid. Martha. 



250. Double Primroses— Grubs. Our plants are 

 being destroyed by a grub about 1-4 of an inch 

 long, of a dirty white color with a brownish head. 

 It eats its way into the main root and works up to 

 the centre of the plant. Can you suggest a rem- 

 edy? When I see a plant affected I cut them down 

 and put the cutting in. 1 would like to know of 

 something to kill the grub, as the plants are load- 

 ed with bloom. Canadian. 



251. Fuchsia Ailing. I have a plant that 

 stands nearly four feet high and the bark on the 

 woody part of the stalk has spht and its great 

 large leaves have a kind of a mildew on them 

 Have I kept it too wet or what is the trouble? 

 Rose, Macomb Co., Mich. 



25:i. Wood Ashes for Strawberries. How 



much uuleached hardwood ashes will a bed two 

 rods long by one rod wide bear without harm? The 

 plants are not yet set. The soil is rather a light, 

 sandy loam. W. H. W. 



253. Raw Limestone Fertilizer. How will this 

 ground fine do for Strawberries? I mean unburned 

 limestone. G. S. D. 



254. Currant Leaves Infested by Lice. How can 

 I kill these, which completely cover the under side of 

 leaves and cause them to fall? Hellebore sprinkled 

 on them does no good. R. E., Concord, N. H. 



255. Asparagus— Choice of Site. I want to set out 

 a patch on one of two places, high ground or rather 

 low. My land is clay loam. Which is the best? 



256. Ridding the Ground. Before setting out 

 Raspberries and Blackberries largely, I would like 

 to ask if one can get rid of them if later the land is 

 wanted for some other purpose? 



257. Blackberries for N. E. Iowa, Snyder and 

 Taylor winter kill here badly unless laid down, 

 then they come out all right. Are there any 

 better kinds with covering in the fail? J. Ridley. 



REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 



225. Soil for Perennial Flowers. Some species 

 and varieties of these will grow almost anywhere, 

 others object to grow in stiff clay. I planted a 

 border about 150 yards long of stiff clay with plants 

 from light soil. We trenched in many cart loads of 

 stable manure, but this was not enough. 1 had to 

 dig out a hole for each plant and round the roots of 

 each valuable specimen a spadeful of light compost 

 was placed. This was composed of about equal 

 parts, leaf-mould and loam. All this might seem 

 a deal of trouble, but it is better to do so than to lose 

 plants, and then have to do it after all. J. D. E. 



\m. English Walnuts. I would refer to L. 

 Burbank, Santa Rosa, California. I received some 

 nuts and seedling trees from him last spring in fine 

 condition. They all grew nicely. A. F. C. 



191. Fall Bloom on Strawberries. The bloom 

 next season must necessarily be as much less as the 

 fall bloom amounted to. No doubt it will be con- 

 siderably more because of injury done to the un- 

 seasonably starting buds that may not have 

 developed into bloom. A. H. P. 



198. Waterloo Peach. This closely resembles 

 the Amsden (Amsden June) in the respects named, 

 but inchnes to be somewhat larger. 



202. Sunlight for Palms, etc. The leaves of the 

 Seaforthia elegans often turn brown at their tips, 

 an ailment of fungoid origin. I know of no remedy. 

 The plants do not specially require sim, yet should 

 be grown in as light a situation as one has at his 

 command. As for the Jerusalem Cherry tree, dur- 

 ing the winter months it does not require much sun, 

 but still enjoys as light a situation as possible. In 

 spring, or as soon as growth commences, it must be 

 placed in the sun for obtaining strong healthy 

 growth. Water thoroughly as needed, without 

 which the leaves tend to a yellowish appearance, 

 the berries to shrivel and drop, and the beauty of 

 the plant is soon endangered. Drain the pots well, 

 for, although this plant reciuires liberal watering, 

 it soon suffers if water stands around its roots. Chas. 

 E. Parnell, i^ueens^ N. Y. 



218. Gladioli from Seed. If the seed is sown 

 early in spring in heat, the bulbs will flower the 

 third year, and many of them in the second year 

 from sowing, but if sown later in a cold frame they 

 will be a year later coming to blooming size. Much, 

 however, depends on culture, as generous treatment 

 will forward them considerably. The best way is 

 to sow at once in a mild hot-bed, if possible, as the 

 seed then germinates more rapidly, or in a warm 

 house. When the young plants appear keep them 

 near the glass until they have developed a leaf, and 

 then remove them to a cold frame, growmg them 

 in a sunny situation in the open air from the middle 

 of June. When the foliage dies off store them m 

 paper bags, or in dry sand in a cool place, and the 

 following year plant them in the open ground, in 

 April, some 3-inches apart. Stir the soil well before 

 planting, adding plenty of rotten dung, and 

 when the plants are well through, mulch with dung; 

 water in dry weather, and keep free from weeds, 

 taking them up in October. 



216. Covering Grape-vines. Manure lightly | 

 applied would answer for this, but the preferred 

 materials are straw, evergreen branches, or even I 



soil. Grape-vine roots extend a long distance; 

 hence, if the object is to cover, these, the coat can 

 hardly be spread too widely aliout. 



217. Hammond's Slug Shot. The demand for 

 this article which increases rapidly from year to 

 year, as it is more widely and repeatedly used, is 

 one of the best proofs that the claims as to its 

 efficiency and comparative safety are reliable. 

 Still all such articles should be used with care. 



228. Dewberry Culture. Best plan is to set two 

 stakes six inches to a foot apart to each plant after 

 the first year. Train the new growth on one stake, 

 leaving the old bearing wood on the other. Another 

 wa3% use one stake, training the new growth along 

 the same on the ground, and as soon as through 

 bearing cut out the old bearing wood and train new 

 growth to stake—unless winters are very severe— 

 and in that case let them lay on ground covered 

 till spring. A. M. P. 



22ii. Apples Failing in Dakota. The trouble 

 with your Apple trees is winter freezing, and the 

 only preventive is protection. 



175. Ground Cherries. I have saved some seed, 

 and will send your correspondent of it if he writes. 

 Plant seed in hot-bed about the first of March, and 

 the plants will answer to set by warm weather. In 

 the scarcity of other fruits this frnit has been used 

 for sauce. It is probably a remnant of Indian cul- 

 tivation, as it bears in some regions the Indian 

 name of Uticash. D. M. Smith, Viola, Iowa. 



221. Treating a Large Wax Plant. Such a 

 large plant might be kept in good shape for some 

 time on liquid stimulants, like manure or ammonia 

 water, the latter described on page 7S. Still this 

 would not. with the cramped state of roots, give 

 extended satisfaction. The right course would be 

 to shift it into a larger box or tub. This could be 

 done with destroying the present pail after it had 

 been brought in place in the larger receptacle. If 

 you have no young plant to finally succeed the 

 present one, let such a one be propagated now. for 

 this is a plant which is in no hurry about coming 

 into flower. Propagating can be done by cuttings, 

 layering, or even by rooting a leaf. Layering we 

 should prefer. For this bend down a branch to a 

 pot of soil and cover a portion of it containing a 

 joint with earth, taking care when doing this to 

 slightly break the portion you cover. Soon roots will 

 be put forth: when this takes place, but not before, 

 the branch should be cut off from the old plant. 



230. Hibiscus Leaves Ailing. The entomologist 

 of this department to whom the leaves were referred 

 said the insects upon it were the Tetranychus 

 telariiis, or Red Mite, but he thought they had not 

 caused the blistering of the leaf, which, therefore, 

 remains unexplained. As to the white substance 

 spoken of, no signs of a fungus disease were dis- 

 covered. An emulsion of carbolic acid or carbolic 

 soap of proper strength syringed or sprayed with 

 an atomizer on the under surface of the leaves will 

 destroy the mites. Geo. Vasey, Botanist of the 

 Department of Agriculture. 



223. Cherries for Michigan. The sweet varieties 

 recognized as standing at the head for the State, are 

 Black Tartarian, Downer's (Late), Early Purple, 

 Elton, Governor Wood, Knight's Early, Coe's Trans- 

 parent. Others that succeed well in ail sections of 

 the State are Black Eagle, Belle D'Orleans, Big- 

 erreau lYellow Spanish), Merveille de Septembre. 

 Napoleon. Ohio (Beauty). Among the Duke and 

 Morello varieties the following take the lead: Belle 

 de Choisy, Belle Magniflque, Early Richmond, Late 

 Kentish, May Duke, Morello, Royal Duke. 



208. Roses turning Yellow. From some cause 

 the vigor of the plants has become checked, and 

 this accounts for the ailment. For the soil to be- 

 come sodden and sour, as a result of over-watering, 

 there would be likely to follow such effects on Roses, 

 and this quite likely is the cause in the case named. 



234. Propagating Fay's Prolific Currant. Any 

 method of increasing the common Currant will 

 apply to this one as well. 



250 Double Primroses— Grubs. Such a case is 

 not easy to deal with, for any ordinary remedy in 

 the shape of a dressing applied to kill the grubs 

 would, if strong enough to destroy these, also de- 

 stroy the plants. If when one suspects the presence 

 of a grub at work on any plant, bj- the sickened 

 appearance of the leaves, he will dig down verj* 

 carefully he may find and kill the grub and thus 

 save the plant. 



210. Treatment of Christmas Roses. These 

 should be moved in the spring, but the sooner after 

 the ground works up well the better. Good loam 

 enriched with rotten dung is the best soil, but they 

 are not at all particular in this respect, doing worst 

 in clay or soils so light and porous that they burn 

 in summer. If the natural soil is very light, add 

 good loam and plenty of manure; if heavy and 

 close, sand, wood-ashes, leaf -soil or decayed garden 

 refuse, anything indeed which may render it more 

 open and free for the roots to work in. The best 

 situation is where the plants get shelter from rough 

 westerly and northerly winds. Ours succeed ad- 

 mirably on the east side of the house about three 

 feet away from the wall. One great beauty of the 

 Christmas Rose is its persistent elegantly divided 

 foliage, which seems peculiarly susceptible to cold 

 drying winds; and when the leaves turn brown or 

 are disfigured half the beauty of the plant is gone, 

 and there is a sensible diminution in the size of the 



flowers. Wherever the Christmas Rose is planted 



it should remain undisturbed, as its true worth is 

 only apparent after becoming well established, 

 when each clump will throw some fifty or more 

 blooms, which, if protected with a handlight from 

 November, leaving a little air on constantly, will 

 come large and very pure; indeed it is only in ex- 

 ceptionally fine winters that the blooms come good 

 unprotected. 



238. Amaryllis from Seed. The treatment suf- 

 ficing for any ordinary seed grown flowers will 

 answer. The soil should be light and the seeds be 

 but hghtly covered. In the house the seed pot 

 might be kept near the stove until germination 

 takes place, afterwards giving plenty of light. 



239. Dahlia Planting. Divide by all means; 

 each tuber having crown enough to contain one 

 sound eye will make a plant. 



240. Primroses from Seed. We prefer not to 

 sow before June. The seeds start somewhat slow. 



242. Dwarf Apples for Ohio. The Storrs & Har- 

 rison Nursery Co., of Painesville, Ohio, recommend 

 the following for your section: " For early, Red 

 Astrachan; for fall. Autumn Strawberry, Duchess 

 of Oldenburg; for winter, Hubbarstone Nonesuch. 

 Ben. Davis, and we think Wealthy will do well 

 there." 



252. Wood Ashes for Strawberries.— If to be 



worked into the soil before setting, anywhere from 

 three to six bushels. We have put on two bushels 

 to the square rod and have had good results, when 

 well worked into the soil. A. M. P. 



2.53. Raw Lime Fertilizer. It will have no fer- 

 tilizing value to speak of, but scattered on in dry 

 weather retains moisture from dew, etc. A. M. P. 



255. Asparagus, Choice of Site. Either will do 

 but our choice would be the higher ground. A. M. P. 



256. Ridding the Ground. The land can be 

 cleared of Raspberries and Blackberries simply by 

 cutting off with a "stub" scythe, and burning, plow- 

 ing up the land. A. M. P. 



257. Blackberries for N. E. Iowa. If covered, 



Kittatinny and Wilson are better than Snyder and 

 Taylor. A. M. P. 



220. Celery Culture. Asanamateurl have raised 

 for several years one hundred and fifty heads of 

 Celery, but I have never succeeded in raising any 

 plants out-of-doors. I sow the seed in a box in the 

 house, about the 10th March, and by the time the 

 ground is ready in the garden, about the middle of 

 May, the plants are an mch and a half high and I 

 transplant them in a bed that is somewhat shady, 

 where they remain until I plant them out in rows 

 sis inches apart, about the 15th of July. I use 

 boards in blanching, but find that I gain much by 

 first hilling the plants once and then put the boards 

 up after that and fill in, being careful at all times 

 to tie or hold the plants together so that no earth 

 can get in the heart. E. W. L. 



201. Hydrangea Budding in the Cellar. Do 

 not bring the plant from the cellar unless growth 

 has commenced or unlessyou have sufficient accom- 

 modation after growth commences. C. E. P. 



205. Sawdust for Mulching, I consider this of 

 no value for the purpose. Not only does it har- 

 bor insect pests— but it gathers or is the cause of 

 many fungoid evils, which soon destroy the roots of 

 the plants to which it is applied. C. E. P. 



U»5. Knots on Prune Roots. Do you not refer 

 to stems and branches ? If so carefully remove as 

 much of them as possible while yet small and in a 

 green state, and apply a coat of whitewash and 

 sulphur, at least twice a year, (spring and fall) as 

 a preventive. C. E. P. 



109. English Walnuts. They can be procured 



of J. T. Lovett, Little Silver, N. J., or Parsons & 

 Sons Co., Flushing, N. Y., and will bear in eight or 

 ten years, the precise time depending on the 

 growth made and size attained by the trees. C. E. P. 



200. Azalea Blasting, The plant may have 

 had improper treatment. It may have been kept 

 too dry or else too wet, and as a result of this the 

 roots received Injury. If you will give me your 

 treatment of the plant I can perhaps suggest a 

 remedy. Chas. E. Parnell, Queens, N. Y. 



207. Cardinal Flower. A kind of rust some- 

 times attacks the plant as a result of excessive 

 moisture, causing death, and this is perhaps what 

 affects yours. A remedy: take up the young 

 plants in October, wash the roots, and at the same 

 time removing any affected parts. Transplant for 

 the winter in a frame on a dry spot, taking meas- 

 ures to keep excessive moisture from settling to 

 the roots of the plants. In the spring they may be 

 planted out early to the place of bloom. 



203. Trees for the' Atlantic Coast. For shade 

 trees we would expect the Scotch Elm, Cork-barked, 

 and Sycamore Maple, Poplars, Catalpas, AJnus 

 Maritima, Thorns, Sumachs, Black Oak. Pines, and 

 Willows to succeed fairly well with you. In Apple 

 trees Gravenstein, Sweet Bough, Porter, Nonesuch 

 (Hubbardson's), Roxbury Russett and Rhode 

 Island Greening usually succeed well in light soil. 

 For Pears on similar soil we would place such va- 

 rieties as Angoulema,.{Duchess de) Louise Bonne, 

 Rostiezer, Kingsessing, Osband's Summer, first on 

 the hst. 



241. Flower Garden Site. Other things being 

 equal, the side of the least strong winds and dense 

 shade— usually the south or southeast— is the best 



