138 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



May, 



many cases the safer, as far as the preservation of 

 a healthful condition of the soil is concerned. 



A moderate use of these substances, supported by 

 a proper addition of concentrated commercial 

 articles of plant food for the purpose of rendering 

 them complete fertilizers, deserves, in the majority 

 of cases, particular commendation on account of 

 the directness aod certainty with which we can 

 reach the object in view. 



The Rose— Culture, Enemies, Etc. 



[Extract from a paper by John Poste before the 

 Columbus (Ohio) Horticultural Society.] 

 When you plant Roses, you desire an abund- 

 ance of blossom and luxuriance of growth ; to 

 produce these results you must give the neces- 

 sary conditions of soil, judicious pruning, 

 climate and location. 



Your soil, if not naturally so, must be con- 

 verted as nearly as possible into a deep, 

 porous loam ; not too light and sandy, nor too 

 stiff and cold a clay,a retentive but thoroughly 

 drained soil. Almost any soil can be brought 

 to proper condition by spading to the depth of 

 fifteen inches, and incorporating with the nat- 

 ural eai'th well-rotted stable manure and sand 

 if too heavy, and of well-rotted manure and 

 clay and wood ashes, if too light and sandy. 



The Rose is a hearty feeder, therefore will 

 bear annual manuring, and as results are de- 

 sired to follow annually also, none but well 

 rotted stable manure or sod should be applied, 

 or such other stimulant as can be readily as- 

 similated with the soil. 



In planting in such a prepared bed, make your 

 holes large enough to place the roots so as not to 

 cramp them, then press well to the roots the earth 

 first put in, but leave the surface dirt loose, so as to 

 admit rain or such artificial watering as may be 

 necessary in a dry time. An excellent liquid ma- 

 nure for watering the soil in immediate prox- 

 imity to the roots can be made by soaking the 

 scrapings of the chicken house in a barrel of water 

 a few days before using. 



Since the Rose bears its blossoms only on the 

 young shoots of tbe current year's growth (as with 

 the Grape}, therefore in the spring cut back the 

 last year's wood freely, entirely removing any dead 

 and half-dead branches, and cutting back those 

 you leave to the strongest buds; cuttheunbranched 

 shoots or canes to such a height as the bush is de- 

 sired to be; each bud left will make a blossom 

 bearing branch, so don't be afraid to cut back, as 

 from such you will get your finest blossoms. 



Roses that bloom more than once during the sum- 

 mer, such as the Tea, Noisette, Bourbon, China and 

 the so-called Hardy Monthlies, or Remontants, 

 should be pruned back after the first blossoming to 

 a strong bud, then a vigorous new growth will 

 start which will bear the next crop of blossoms. 

 Never allow haws or seed capsules to mature on 

 your bushes, for in bringing the seed to perfection 

 they will so far sap the vitality of your plants. 



Of the insect enemies of the Rose 1 will first men- 

 tion the slug, which by skeletonizing the foliage 

 destroys Nature's well devised economy of atmos- 

 pheric absorption through the leaves and their 

 adjunctive assistants— tbe very lungs of the plant 

 —thereby preventing that vigorous new growth 

 which we have seen is absolutely necessary to the 

 production of blossoms. Any dry dust or powder 

 coming in contact with their slimy bodies will de- 

 stroy them; having thoroughly apphed the dust, 

 whether it be road dust, lime, or any of the pow- 

 dered insecticides of commerce, after a few hours 

 thoroughly syringe off the foliage and restore it 

 to its normal condition of respiratory organs. 



The Green-fiy, which, however, is most likely to 

 prove troublesome in the conservatory, or to house 

 plants, readily succumbs to tobacco water or smoke, 

 or to immersion of the affected limbs in water as 

 hot as the hands will well bear. The Red Spider may 

 be routed by systematic watering alone. 



The bug which attacks the opening bud fortun- 

 ately is comparatively rare; it is best removed by 

 hand picking or eradicated by persistent syringing 

 with any insecticide, or even pure water; but recol- 

 lect that bushes from which dead and half dead 

 limbs and rubbish have been seasonably removed, 

 and are getting proper food, are rarely much 

 affected by any insect pests. Imperfect blossoms, 

 stunted growth, a general consumptive appearance, 

 are a mute appeal to you for better soil, more food 

 and the removal of superfluous wood— the incubus 

 of an unhealthy past. My long acquaintance with 

 her majesty, our Queen of the garden, enables me 

 to promise you right royal favors in return for the 

 tender treatment you will accord her. 



HOUSE PLANTS. 



Abutilons can go outside at the time of bedding 

 out. By growing them in good soil, with fair shifts, 

 syringing, pruning back, etc.. fine specimens, 

 effective for lawn decoration, may soon be had. 

 With a top-dressing of manure, lat<*r, their bloom- 

 ing will be nearly continuous. 



Begonias of the flowering section to be kept in- 

 side during the summer will need ample light, but 

 no direct sunshine A sunny window kept lightly 

 shaded will just suit. The showy leaf section will 

 stand even less sun than the preceding. 



Boxes. For large specimen plants boxes are 

 better than pots. Handles and castors on them will 

 faciliate moving about. For such plants a good 

 dressing of manure, except for every third year, 

 may often be made to answer in place of a shift. 

 Callas. Sometimes the plants seem healthy enough 

 but have had no flowers during the winter. Plunge 

 the pot of such to the rim outdoors, thus reducing 

 their vigor and they should bloom well a year later. 

 Soapy water given several times a week is helpful. 



Clerodendrons from the cellar should, after a 

 start, be repotted in rich, light soil. Ample pot- 

 room is needed for the best flowers. A somewhat 

 shady situation with free airing suits them well. 

 Propagating had better be done while the plants are 

 in bloom or afterwards. 



Ferns need a shady window and to be well but 

 not over watered. 



Ficus elastic or India rubber Tree may serve well 

 as a plant for the window the year around. Sponge 

 the leaves f requently,that no Red Spider may gain a 

 foothold. Once in a while give a little stimulant 

 in the water in order that the pot may be kept of 

 moderate size. 



Fuchsias that have bloomed during the winter 

 may with advantage be given partial rest, through 

 less frequent watering, before being pressed into 

 use for summer or fall decoration. 



Hydrangeas if treated to liquid manure will 

 make a stronger growth and yield finer bloom. 



Palms. Unless making a very rapid growth, 

 these only need a shift every second year. With such 

 as require it shifting should be done just previous 

 to their being placed outside. 



LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN. 



Annuals generally, may be sown in the open 

 air. The more tender ones, like Nasturtium, 

 Thunbergia, Glaucium, Perilla, Swan River Daisy, 

 Sensitive Plant, Salvia, Four O'clock, GaiUardia, 

 Browallia, Gourds, Striped Maize, Cockscomb, 

 Lychnis, and Cobaea scandens, should not be trust- 

 ed out too early, not before the Oak leaves start. 



Deep Planting of Gladiolus, Tuberoses and 

 Sweet Peas, say two to four inches down, will 

 usually give better results than the more shallow 

 covering suitable for the generality of growths. 



Evergreens may be transplanted a little later 

 than it is safe to reset deciduous trees, in fact, any 

 time before the new growth commences, and again 

 in the summer, after the new growth becomes 

 hardened. In handling these use extreme care to 

 keep the roots from drying. As in all good plant- 

 ing, the ground is to be well firmed about the roots. 



Ferns to be planted early in shady or partial- 

 ly shady spots; the soil to be rather light and 

 drained. Our native hardy Ferns are among the 

 most ornamental and easily managed of hardy 

 plants. A little care to water them in dry seasons, 

 and giving them a little protection during the 

 winter, with an occasional top-dressing of manure, 

 will make them permanent features. 



Lilies. Green-fly sometimes trouble these early 

 in the season, to prevent which mulch with wet 

 tobacco stems two or three inches thick. 



Morning Glories, from the best seed, sown in 

 good soil, form a screen, beautiful and effective. 



Planting of all tender plants is in order, begin- 

 ning with the hardier sorts, like Carnations, Holly- 

 hocks, Stocks, Verbenas, etc., then following with 

 Geraniums and other greenhouse plants, finally 



coming to the most tender kinds, like Coleus, AI- 

 ternantheras, etc., which, if not set out before 

 June, often go far ahead of the earlier planted. 



Walks. To prevent weeds growing in the walks, 

 the use of the following solution is recommended: 

 One part low grade carbolic acid in one hundred 

 parts of water, applied in a spray form. Guard 

 the hands and permit none of the solution to come 

 against the grass or box-edgings. 



Yuccas. These plants should have a light, rich 

 soil. Y. filainentosa is one of the handsomest and 

 the most reliable bloomers. F. aloifolia and the 

 variegated variety of the same are very ornamental. 



PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



Cactus, As they begin growth shift as needed. 

 Many sorts answer well for summer bedding. 



Camellias succeed outside after frosts are over 

 in situations somewhat sheltered from wind, and 

 partially shaded. They must never suffer from lack 

 of water or infrequent syringing. 



Chrysanthemums in pots to be kept shifted, not 

 allowing them to become stunted. Syringe daily, 

 and this will also keep the Red Spider down. In 

 bedding out, the plants succeed best in strong soil. 



Cinerarias. To increase true to character any 

 variety of special value, simply fill the pot nearly 

 full of sandy compost and into this roots will soon 

 strike. When well started divide the plant, potting 

 each rooted part separately, using good soil. 



Cyclamen. For summer treatment the plants 

 may go into the border, there to remain until fall. 



Orchids. Such as Dendrobiums, Stanhopeas. 

 Aerides, Saccolabiums, Vandas, etc., may with 

 anything like neglect easily suffer from drought. 

 For the Indian section an atmosphere highly charged 

 with moistiu-e is indispensable. 



Pelargoniums of the Lady Washington section, 

 in bloom, to receive shade, air and a cool position. 



Propagation of such plants as one needs for next 

 winter's use may be continued through the month, 

 including such soft wooded plants as Geraniums, 

 Justicias. Heliotropes, Euphorbia. Begonia. Sweet 

 Alyssum and other quick growers. 



Shading in some measure is congenial to the 

 majority of plants at this season. Some, like Dra- 

 csenas, Ferns, Fuchsias, Camellias, Orchids, Palms, 

 etc., require the shade to be heavier than do Roses. 

 Geraniums and the average of bedding plants. 

 Either common lime whitewash or naphtha and 

 whiting as thick as milk are the materials usually 

 employed. To apply, no better means exists than 

 the syringe. It should be applied on the exterior, 

 varying the thickness according to the plants under- 

 neath, as suggested above. In the line of screens 

 of lath, some made by nailing ordinary lath one 

 inch apart to light frames some four by six feet 

 in size are admirable. 



Shelf Plants. Lycopodium, Moneyvine, Othonna, 

 Linaria, Tradescanthla, etc., cao, for economy of 

 space at this crowded season, be grown on narrow 

 shelves placed midway from the walk to the bottom 

 of the stages, as the shade here does not hinder 

 their growth materially. 



Watering. Now that the houses are filled with 

 prime stock subject to free airing and high sun-heat, 

 it is no time to slight the watering. Neglect now 

 is liable to do more damage than at any other time, 

 Wet down the walks and side walls daily. 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 



Berry Baskets and crates or other packages 

 used for marketing to be got in readiness before 

 the season fairly opens. All crates should be 

 neatly and plainly marked with a stencil plate. 



Budded Stock requires all the buds, except the 

 one inserted, to be removed as they begin to grow. 



Crooked Trees to be helped by judicious staking. 



Cultivation of all young trees, at least for some 

 years after planting, is a most essential condition 

 of their making vigorous growth. By planting 

 hoed crops in and between the rows, it may be 

 done thoroughly and continually with double gains. 

 Com, because of its height, is to be avoided, as its 

 shade will tend to impair matiu-ity of growth. 



Currants are a much neglected crop usually. 

 Given decent treatment in the way of cultivation, 

 a dressing of manure and summer mulching, and 

 no plants are more satisfactory croppers. For 

 worms infesting the bushes, apply Hellebore as 

 directed by Dr. Lintner last month. 



Grape-vines set in the spring should be allowed 

 to grow but one bud. Those of last year's planting 

 may have two. The superfiuous buds should be 

 nipped off as soon as they appear. When the 



