i6o 



POPULAR GARDENING. 



June, 



it would die. Will some one please tell how to 

 manage it? Mrs. F. C. L., Auglaize^ Co., Ohio. 



339. Strawberry Query. Does the Sucker State 

 resemble tbe Sharpless in foliage, blossom and fruit ; 

 also, if the Daniel Boon is nearly identical with the 

 Windsor Chief? Geo. E. Hanchett, 3/onroe Co., Wis. 



340. Hyacintba for a Second Forcing. Will the 

 bulbs that have bloomed in the house one winter 

 bloom again if forced? T. B., Kansas City, Mo. 



341. Peaches under Glass. Will Peaches ripen 

 well in a cold grapery ? 



34-3. Grapes Shrivelling in Winter. I keep 



Grapes in a good basement through every winter, 

 and until April and even May. but they shrivel like 

 Raisins. Can this be prevented? R., Toronto, Ont. 



a43. Fertilizers for Fruit Garden, (a.) How 

 much wood ashes would you advise to put around 

 three year old Apple trees? ib.) Would it be a 

 benefit to mix salt with the ashes? (c.) Would not 

 such a mixture suit Grapes? id.) Having no bone 

 mill, would you think well of breaking up bones and 

 mixing them with dirt about the roots of such? 



344. Apples on Wild Crab. Is it worth while to 

 bud the former on the latter? 



345. Plum and Apricot Stocks. Are trees raised 

 from the pits of these fruits from budded trees short 

 lived and less hardy like the Peach? J. L. H., 

 Sparta, Pa. 



346. Hydrangea Culture. I have not been suc- 

 cessful in growing Hydrangeas, owing to inexperi- 

 ence no doubt. Will some one kindly inform me as 

 to best methods of culture. Ignorant. Banyor, Me. 



REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 



295. A Selection of Annuals. For a continuous 

 display, as well as to furnish a supply of cut flowers 

 during the summer season, I would advise the use 

 of the following; Asters in variety, Candytuft in 

 variety, Dianthus Chinensis in variety, Calliopsisiu 

 variety, Celosias in variety. Petunias in variety. 

 Pansy in variety, Scabiosa in variety, Stock- 

 German ten-week— in variety. Verbenas in variety, 

 Nasturtium— Tom Thumb— in variety, and if ad- 

 ditional varieties are desired add Balsam in variety. 

 Marigolds in variety. Zinnias in variety,Gomphrenas 

 in variety. If a few climbers are desired, procure 

 Morning Glories in variety, Tropseolum Lobbianum 

 in variety, Thunbergias in variety, Maurandia in 

 variety. Sweet Peas are quite indispensable where 

 cut flowers are in demand, although they are hardly 

 adapted for cultivation in the flower garden. Still, 

 if properly grown and cared for. they will form an 

 excellent low hedge or screen which will be found 

 useful in many situations. Ohas. E. Parnell. 



296. Snails Devouring Lettuce. Hollow out 

 pieces of Turnips and place them among the plants 

 or else place short pieces of boards on the ground 

 between the plants. These should be carefully ex- 

 amined every morning and all the snails destroyed. 

 Or, as snails feed at nieht, they can be captured 

 while feeding by carefully examining the plants by 

 the aid of a lantern during the evening. Chas. E. 

 Parnell, Queens, L. I. 



283. Soot Water for Plants. Yes, this can be 

 used as a fertilizer, but I prefer guano, or Youn^ & 

 Elliotts' Compressed Sheep Manure, to anything 

 else. Chas. E. Parnell, Queetis, L. I. 



274. 279. Oxalis not Blooming. In order to have 

 the OxaUs flower to perfection during the winter 

 months they should be so placed so as to be fully 

 exposed to the sun as much as possible. They will 

 grow well enough in any light situation, but if 

 flowers are wanted they must be exposed to the sun. 

 Chas. E. Parnell, Queens., L. I. 



275. Swanley White Violets. I think that you 

 had better throw your plants away and procure 

 others. Chas. E. Parnell, Queeyis, L. J. 



276. Chinese Lily. I do not know of any plant 

 by this name. If you will describe it 1 may be able 

 to give you some information concerning it. Chas. 

 E. Parnkll, Queens, L. I, 



307. Weeding Lawn. All such weeds as Dande- 

 lions, Plantains, Buttercups, etc., can be readily 

 removed from lawns by cutting them off about 

 half an inch below the surface with a stout knife; 

 one that is used for cutting Asparagus will answer 

 very well. Chas. E. Parnell, Queens, L. I. 



306. Worms in Lawn. A good dressing of soot, 



wood-ashes, or Henderson's Lawn Fertilizer, ap- 

 plied just before rain, will in a great measure 

 banish the worms. Any or all of the above, if 

 liberally applied, will prove to be excellent fertil- 

 izers. C'HAs. E. Parnkll, Queens, L. I. 



301. Loose Bark on Trees. Yes, I am of the 

 opinion that it is best to remove all loose bark. 

 Chas. E. Parnkll, Queens, L. I. 



265. Soap Suds and House Slops. During the 

 summer I find a good use for house slops and wash 

 water by using them to water plants. Use tin cans 

 (old fruit cans will answer), punch a very small hole 

 in the bottom, set near the Tomato. Cucumber and 

 Melon vines, or any other variety of plants that 

 need plenty of moisture, and keep them supplied 

 with water; this furnishes the moisture and at the 

 same time adds good fertilizing material. N. J. 

 Shepherd, Eldon, Mo. 



269. Bqes and Grapes. I think I can truthfully 

 say that the bees do injure them. Last fall as I 

 was gathering Grapes I noticed that a great many 

 of them were cut. and that bees were there sipping 

 juice. I decided to investigate, not daring to dis- 

 turb them lest they quit work. I did not get to see 

 any of the bees in the act of cutting the skin, but T 

 noticed that the holes got larger as they worked on. 

 Finally I caught one of the bees to see if it could cut 

 one of the Grapes, and after its temper was aroused 

 enough I applied its mouth to a Grape and it cut it 

 like a knife with apparent ease. After repeating 

 this experiment many times I came to the conclu- 

 sion that bees do injure Grapes. C. E. Pleas, Henry 

 Co., Indiana. 



176. Honey Dew. It has been shown that this 

 substance is excreted by some plants independent 

 of all insect agency. It is not confined to excretory 

 glands nor to any set of special organs but is pro- 

 duced over the entire surface of the leaves or twigs, 

 and may, in some cases at least, be regarded as a 

 veritable disease. The Linden, Poplar, Elm, Wil- 

 low, Olive, Orange, Walnut, Fir, and several species 

 of Maple are subject to this malady, but to what 

 extent it is really injurious is not well known. 



Some Simple Floiver Bed Designs and laying them 

 out. See ansicer to 322. 



Sometimes the affected plants do not suffer, but 

 there are cases again where the leaves become dis- 

 colored on account of the destruction of the chlor- 

 ophyl. No further injury has been noted, yet from 

 the fact that the honey dew is likely to attract in- 

 jurious insects as well as various parasitic funeri. it 

 may indirectly occasion serious damage. Very 

 little is known as to the cause of this malady. Some 

 think it may be due to peculiarities in the soil, 

 others that it arises from a constitutional affection, 

 for among a lot of diseased plants a few may be 

 found in perfect health; while others again attribute 

 it to some alteration in or wounds of the roots. It 

 appears most frequently in hot dry weather, more 

 particularly upon plants exposed to the direct rays 

 of the sun. but beyond the theories above mentioned 

 we' know nothing of the cause nor can we suggest a 

 remedy. F. Lamson Scribner, Washingtoii , D. C. 



322. Flower-Bed Designs, For the average cul- 

 tivator we think designs of rather a simple charac- 

 ter and requiring but a few kinds of plants in their 

 arrangement are the most suitable, being easily 

 laid out, while it is a question whether such are not 

 handsomer than more elaborate ones. Some of the 

 more desirable forms for beds in this hne are shown 

 in the engraving on this page. These hardly re- 

 quire to be explained beyond saying that the 

 various lines indicate the outlines of different kinds 

 of plants to be used. Any one of these designs 

 applied to beds from five to ten feet across, and 

 planted with such reliable kinds as Coleus, Gerani- 

 ums. Altemantheras, etc., should prove satisfactory 

 with due attention to ordinary points of culture. 

 In laying out patterns no more diflQcult than these 

 the simple course shown in the engraving is per- 

 haps the best. This consists simply of making with 

 a light stick— a rake handle will answer— the lines 

 on the surface of the bed after this has been 

 properly shaped up to receive the plants, scribing, 

 erasing and scribing until the hoes are sufficiently 

 true and pleasing. Fig. h may need a word of ex- 

 planation. The idea here is to plant the main part 

 witli one color, say Coleus Verschaffeiti, and then 

 rim in an irregular group with a few scattering 

 plants, as if broken off. of some other kind darker 

 or lighter than the main sort, about as indicated 

 by the lines in tbe engraving. The only work of 

 our acquaintance devoted to designs in flower 

 beds is that of Geo. A. Solly & Son, referred to 

 on page 94, March issue. 



329. Cabbage Seed South. With careful manage- 

 ment Cabbage seed may be grown at the South. 

 The seed heads should be kept over winter by 

 heeling them in a dry situation up to their lower 

 leaves on the north side of a building or close fence, 

 and covering shghtly with straw or evergreen 

 boughs to prevent alternate freezing and thawing 

 during the winter. It is the sun's influence more 

 than frost that must be guarded against. In the 

 following spring set out some of the best heads 

 wintered over, being sure to keep them a good dis- 

 tance from Turnips and all other members of the 



Brassica family to avoid intermixing. Support 

 the stems as they rise by stakes, and gather the 

 seed before it scatters. Cauliflower is preserved 

 and seeded with greater difficulty, almost all seed 

 supplies of it being yet drawn from Europe. 



339. Strawberry Query. The Sucker State re- 

 sembles the Sharpless somewhat in foliage, but 

 not in flower or fruit. The latter has so few 

 stamens that some have called it pistillate; and its 

 blossoms are so tender that a light frost will not 

 only kill every one that is out, but will destroy the 

 buds some days before they are ready to unfold. 

 The Sucker State has many stamens, and its 

 blossoms are as hardy as those of other varieties. 

 The greatest difference is in the fruit. The Sharp- 

 less often misshapen, ripens unevenly and is of 

 quite dark color, while the Sucker State is as uni- 

 form as the Cumberland, light glossy scarlet, and 

 colors all over at once. The "Windsor Chief and 

 Daniel Boone are not at all alike, except that they 

 are both pistillate. The former is late and the 

 fruit is nearly round, quite dark, very glossy, and 

 sour, while the Daniel Boone is of larger size, 

 lighter color, and often triangular or slightly 

 wedge-shaped. — M. Crawford, Cuyahoga Falls, O. 



327. Locality for Fruit Baising and Market. 

 ing. After considerable experience in fruit, veget- 

 able and flower growing for market at a point 

 within eleven miles of Buffalo, and from general 

 observation we must conclude that the man who 

 understands his business in either one or all of 

 these branches, could find no better place in which 

 to engage in the business than in the neighborhood 

 of any thrifty town, and this applying east or west. 

 Our choice of location would be such a distance 

 from the town that good land could be bought at 

 ordinary farm-land prices, but not so far as to be 

 deprived of the important advantage of bringing 

 the produce direct and fresh to the consumer, to 

 always secure his best price. Such a distance from 

 town should also enable one to procure manure ad- 

 vantageously The matter of present competition 

 under such circumstances hardly enters into con- 

 sideration, for in horticulture, for a near market, one 

 has the advantage that established reputation is of 

 comparatively small consequence side of the ability 

 to grow a superior quality of fruit, vegetables or 

 flowers. Vou offer the best for sale, and buyers are 

 not going to ask whether you are one or ten years 

 established, they want your produce and will pay 

 the best price for the best quality. For our part 

 therefore we would prefer to locate near some well 

 populated town.— certain ones in Kansas would well 

 suit us,— rather than push to more distant parts 

 like Florida or Texas although here also some fine 

 opportunities for money making exist at points 

 such as we have designated. 



282. Currant "Worm Remedy. I have saved my 

 Currant crop for two years by a plentiful dusting 

 on the vine (when the dew is on) with Hammond's 

 Slug Shot. Thos. H. Brinton, Delaware Co., Pa. 



335. Treating a Neglected Fruit Farm. The" 

 main thing trees in the condition you report need 

 is thorough ploughing and cultivation. Salt applied 

 at the rate of two barrels to the acre scattered 

 mainly under the trees would be found an excellent 

 fertilizer in such a case. The leaf mold is a good 

 article to apply to the land; you could hardly use 

 too much of it. Wood ashes are a most excellent 

 fertilizer for fruit trees. Neither Grapes nor Peach 

 trees should have too much manure or fertilizers, 

 but free cultivation. We would advise the white- 

 washing of the bodies of all trees with a good coat 

 of hrae wash. A. M. P. 



326. Bearing "Wood of the Dewberry. The 



growth of one year serves to fruit the next year, the 

 same as the Raspberry. There are different plans 

 for growing them. Some drive down two stakes, 

 say 10 to 12 inches apart near the root, after they 

 have been planted a year. The bearing canes are 

 fastened up to one stake, and the new canes for 

 next year trained upon the other stake: though we 

 prefer having but one stake and letting new growth 

 run along row on the ground, and leaving it there 

 over winter and train it up to stake the next spring. 



325. Camellias with Yellow Foliage. They 



are probably in a bad state at the roots. Examine 

 the drainage therefore, and if defective rectify it. 

 At the same time examine the soil, and if not well 

 occupied with healthy roots it would be advisable 

 to remove it from amongst them and supply fresh. 

 We use fresh turf loam of a light nature, cut about 

 two inches thick and turned up roughly. In this 

 we pot rather firmly. Good drainage is necessary 

 as the plants should not be more frequently dis- 

 turbed than every third or fourth year. Failing 

 the loam, Camellia^ thrive well in fibrous peat, 

 small plants doing admirably in leaf soil alone with 

 a free mixture of sand. With the roots in a healthy 

 state the new growths will produce better foliage. 

 If the roots are in good condition offer soot water, 

 which will improve the growth and color. A. H. E. 



;W3. Fertilizers for Fruit Garden, (a.) A quart 

 of unleached wood ashes should answer for each 

 three year old Apple tree, placing it near the body. 

 (b.) Salt added to the ashes in the proportion of 

 one part of the former to eight of the latter would 

 be excellent, (c.) Such a mixture would suit 

 Grapes well, (rf.) Bones broken finely are a valua- 

 ble addition to the soil in which Grape roots are 

 planted. A. M. Purdy. 



