200 Monthly Calendar. 



lect good, strong, new shoots and encourage them as much as possible 

 for bearing wood for next season. Vines in tiie open air will be now 

 breaking their buds. Such as were not pruned hist fall may now have 

 tht'ir shoots shortened. Many cultivators think that vines should on no 

 account be pruned in the spring, as the bleeding from the wotn)ds is ex- 

 tremely injurious; others hold to the contrary opinion, and recommend 

 spring pruning for the Isabella, Catawba and other America varieties. 

 We have tried both and never could perceive any difference in the health 

 of the vines. 



Grape Ei/es put in as recommended in February and March, may 

 now be taken out of the hot-bed and hardened to the ten)perature of the 

 open air ; those that have grown very vigorously should be shifted inta 

 large pots. 



Plantations of Strawberries may yet be made. If dry weather should 

 succeed, the plants will require watering. Beds which are in fidl bear- 

 ing should have hay or straw laid between the rows to keep the fruit 

 from being beaten into the ground by the heavy rains. 



JVewIy planted trees should be mulched with coarse strawy manure, 

 and, if large, tied to strong stakes to prevent their being injured by high 

 winds. 



FLOWER DEPARTMENT. 



Tulip beds should be shaded from the hot sun to prevent the flowers 

 from being destroyed. 



Raiiunculuses should be protected against the hot rays of the sun, 

 which ahnost iminetliately burn up the dark colored flowers. 



Polyanthuses will now be in full bloom ; as soon as these flowers have 

 faded, the root should be separated to increase the collection. 



Tigerflowers may now be planted in the open border, where they will 

 produce much finer flowers than when planted in pots. 



Gladiolus natalensis should now be i)lanted in the open border ; make 

 the soil light and rich, or their spikes of flowers will be small and few 

 in number. 



Chrysanthemums should now be increased by dividing the roots. Place 

 the young plants in a shady situation for a few days till well rooted. 



Cuttings of Salvias may '.aill be put in. 



Dahlias may be planted the latter part of the month, if the weather is- 

 warm. Nothing is gained by putting them into the ground early in the 

 season, as they will not make much progress until the ground becomes 

 warm. For directions, see our first volume. In our succeeding number 

 some excellent remarks will be found by Mr. Walker. 



Annual foiver seeds should be all sown this month, if possible. Par- 

 ticidar pains should be taken to make the soil very fine. It is from this 

 cause alone that many seeds do not vegetate, and the fault is laid to the 

 seedsman. The soil should also be watered if dry weather ensues. 



Cuttings of Geraniums and other green-house plants should be put in 

 the latter part of this month. 



Camellias. Where camellias are kept in rooms, the plants should, as- 

 soon as the weather will allow, be placed in the open air in a shady sit- 

 uation, and syringed every other day. After being confined to the dry 

 air of a room all winter, the sooner they are out the better. Plants in 

 green-houses should be shaded from the mid-day sun, and also syringed 

 two or three times a week. Inarching the plants may yet be performed. 



