130 



Popular Science Monthly 



Fig. 4. This frame may be roughly put 

 together from any lumber found about a 

 home. Complete dimensions are shown in 

 the figure. Leave the frame on the form 

 for two weeks, when it will have a per- 

 manent set in the desired shape. 



The exact position for the two center 

 cross-braces is best determined by experi- 

 ment. Spring them in the frame about 

 15 in. apart, and balance the frame across 

 the clasped hands between the braces. 

 The shoe should almost balance at this 

 point. Shift the braces so that the heel is 

 about 1 3^ oz. heavier. This insures the 

 heel of the snow-shoe cutting down, and 

 keeps the toe nearer the surface. The 

 crossbars are i in. wide, and ^ in. thick. 

 Make them of ash to the shape shown in 

 Fig. 5. Each end of the brace is mortised 

 or let in the sides of the frame. A sharp 

 3/^-in. chisel will come in handy for cutting 

 the mortise, which must be 14 i". deep. 

 Take pains to make the ends of the braces 

 a nice snug fit in the mortises, so that the 

 spring of the frame will keep them solidly 

 in position. 



The small upper cross-brace shown in 

 Fig. 2, is only necessary when the toe is 

 much up-curved. In the straight or only 

 slightly up-curved model we are making, 

 this brace may be omitted. 



After finishing the frame, smooth all 

 surfaces with sandpaper, and slightly 

 round off the top and bottom edges of the 

 frame and the edges of the braces so that 



FIG.3 _ FIG.4 



Dimensions of the snow-shoe frame and the 

 drying mold over which the sides are shaped 



the filling may not chafe across the sharp 

 corners. To preserve the wood, a coat of 

 common linseed oil may be wiped on the 

 wood, but do not put anything else on the 

 frame. Some cheap factory-made snow- 

 shoes are varnished, but no Indian or 

 woodsman would make or use a snow-shoe 



thus finished, because the frame would 

 prove slippery and treacherous when cross- 

 ing logs and ice, causing accidents. 



FI&.S 



The crossbars are of ash fastened with tenons 

 to the ends to fit in mortises of the frame 



The Indians and woodsmen still fill their 

 frames with deer, moose or caribon hide, 

 but the white man substitutes cowhide for 

 the center and calfskin for filling the ends. 



Lacing in the Pattern 



Regular rawhide or cowhide belt-lacing 

 is very satisfactory, and this may be pur- 

 chased in long strips in suitable widths. 

 For the center, use ^-in. lacing, and for 

 the toe, heel and lanyards use the 3^-in. 

 width. This may appear a bit wide, but 

 as the thongs are soaked and stretched 

 before use, this will make them very much 

 smaller. 



As the leather cannot be well joined with 

 knots, the end of each thong is joined to 

 another by slitting the end of each to form 

 an eye, and the two thongs are joined as 

 shown in Fig. 6. For weaving the strands 

 a lacing needle or bodkin is used. This is 

 simply a piece of birch or maple whittled 

 shuttle-shape about 2 in. long, ^ in. wide 

 and 14 in. thick. The bottom side is flat, 

 and the top is convexed and rounded as 

 shown. In the center is an oval hole for 

 the threaded end of the thong. By turning 

 the shuttle slightly, the thong is nipped 

 securely while it is woven and stretched in 

 place. 



Cotton cord may also be used for filling 

 the frame. It answers very well where a 

 cheap snow-shoe is desired for occasional 

 use. However, as the labor is the same, it 

 is better to make a hide-filled shoe in the 

 first place, as cord will not stand much 

 hard use. For cord, pick out a heavy 

 twisted or cable-laid fishline for the center, 

 and use a smaller size line for the ends. 



As shown in Figs, i and 2, the center of 

 the shoe is filled with woven hide laced 

 over the sides of the frame. The ends — toe 

 and heel sections — are not laced around the 

 frame but are woven through a strip of 



