28 



TRANSPLANTING TREES. 



ter, we do not believe. In pruning an old tree, long neglected, 

 where it is requisite to cut away many large branches, attention to the 

 circulation of sap, the new formation of wood, &c., &c., should, by 

 all means, be the guide. Experience, as well as theory, teaches 

 that the most healthy formation of wood commences in July; that 

 all growth previous is imperfect, and, were it not for that and ensu 

 ing months, would rapidly decay ; that while wood is not made as 

 rapidly at that time, and afterward, as previous, it is of a firmer, 

 closer, and more healthy character. If, therefore, large limbs are to 

 be removed, let the time from July to ^September, inclusive, be se- 

 lected. A subject so liberally" treated upon as this has been from 

 the earliest authors down, it would seem should be better understood 

 than appears from the quantity of ill shapen, malformed trees, to be 

 seen in almost every orchard. Barry says : 



" It is not only necessary to know what and why, but also how to 

 prune. Theory is only useful as it serves to guide in practice. 



" The great point to be observed in making incisions on the stems 

 and branches of trees, is to provide for the speedy and perfect heal- 

 ing of the wounds or cut surfaces. In removing a portion of a branch 

 or stem, if we cut between two joints, so as to leave a portion of 



wood above the bud, 

 intended to be cut to, 

 as in fig. 18, this wood 

 dies, and we have 

 the trouble of another 

 pruning to remove it. 

 If we cut too close to 

 the bud, and thus re- 

 move a portion of the 

 wood with which it is 

 connected, as in fig. 

 19, the bud will either 

 die or disappoint us 

 by producing: a verv 



*. . b . ., v, u ,, u , should be. Fig. 21, removal of n , , , m, J 



a branch, the cross line indicating the proper place for feeble growth. I he 



proper way is to take 



the branch to be operated on in the left hand, place the edge of the 

 knife on it, opposite the lower part of the bud to be cut to, and then 

 make a firm, quick, smooth draw-cut, sloping upwards, so that the 

 knife will come out on a level with the point of the bud, as in fig. 

 20. In soft-wooded, pithy plants, like the grape vine, for example, 

 half an inch of wood ought to be left above the bud. The cut should 

 also be made, as much as poSvsible, on the lower side of the branch, 

 to prevent rain from lodging in the centre. The position of the bud 

 cut to, is also worthy of consideration in pruning, to produce or mod- 

 ify certain forms When we wish the new shoot of a lateral 



18 



19 20 



FIGS. TO PRUNING. 



Fig. 18, cutting too far above the bud. Fig.. 19, cutting too 

 close. Fig. 20, the cut as it s 



