PROPAGATION. 245 



for this entire book, we must forbear, and only devote our space to 

 such instructions as will enable the inexperienced to make the first 

 start correctly, premising that once interested and engaged in the 

 subject, disposition will be found freely to avail himself of all works 

 yet issued devoted to the subject. 



Propagation. By Seed. This course is only pursued where in- 

 tended to originate a new variety. At this time, large offers of pre- 

 mium are circulated in the journals of the day for the production 

 of a hardy grape, surpassing the Catawba as a wine grape. Fertil 

 izing some variety of the vitis vinefera with pollen of vitis labrusca, 

 or vice versa, will be the course to pursue with any expectation of 

 success; the seed so fertilized, gathered carefully and sown in rich 

 vegetable mould. Cultivation of our wild grapes only increases the 

 size without ameliorating their character. 



By Cuttings. These are taken from the strongest vines of the 

 last year's growth, cut to a length, embracing three or four buds, 

 according as the joints are long or short of the variety ; where pos- 

 sible, a little piece of the old wood left on the lower end is preferred. 

 These being made in the Fall, when pruning the vines, are laid away 

 in bundles in a cool cellar until Spring ; when, as soon as the ground 

 is ready, they should be soaked or swollen in a tub of water, for four 

 or five days, or until the buds become fully swollen. They are then 

 planted in rows, if in the nursery, by bending into nearly the form 

 of a half circle, as represented by figure, which shows the cutting as 

 it appears in about one month from plant- 

 ing. By this, it is seen that the upper bud 

 is covered nearly an inch : in clayey soils, or 

 those retentive of moisture, the upper bud 

 should be just even with the soil. The rows, 

 in nursery, should be three feet apart, and 

 the plants one foot distant each in the row. 

 This is the best and most successful mode of growing the grape vine. 

 The earth should be pressed firmly at the base of the cutting, and 

 left light and loose at top. 



By Grafting. The best season to perform this operation is when 

 the leaves are about half grown. Earlier, the sap is very abund 

 ant, and at same time watery, and grafts do not succeed well. Whip 

 grafting, as it is termed, is best ; or, if stock and graft are near of 

 size, saddle grafting. The graft should have been cut early in the 

 season, before any flow of sap or swelling of buds, and have been 

 kepi in a cool, yet moist place. The point on the stock at which it 

 is best done, is at or near the ground ; and, after insertion, earth up 

 a small mound around it, to protect from change of temperature, sun, 

 &c. If the operation be performed further up on the stalk, wrapping 

 the place of union with grafting clay will be requisite. Care must 

 be taken that the inner bark of both graft and stock join each other 



