TRAINING AND PRUNING THE SECOND SEASON. 239 



weather, when they may be pertly closed. Less ventila- 

 tion should be given in a hot vinery, and the house 

 should he closed at night and opened during the day, 

 when it can he done without dropping the temperature 

 below seventy degrees. 



TRAINING AND PRUNING THE SECOND SEASON. 



A vine that has been planted out one year and that 

 has been trained as directed, should be cut back, a 

 month or so after the leaves have fallen, leaving a stem 

 from four to six feet long, according to the strength of 

 the vine (Fig. 83). From this, a strong bud should be 

 allowed to develop a leader, to extend the vine up the 

 rafter, which should be treated in the same way as the 

 leading shoot of the first year. All side buds should be 

 nibbed off as they start, below the bottom of the rafter. 

 If the vines are very strong, a few of the stronger side 

 shoots, if grapes set upon them, may be allowed to ripen 

 one bunch each. These laterals should be pinched off 

 when they reach a length of twelve to fifteen inches. 

 The simplest and one of the most satisfactory forms of 

 trellis is made of No. 12 galvanized wire, stretched about 

 one foot apart and fifteen inches from the glass. 



Another method of training the vines, if they are 

 strong, and of obtaining a little fruit the second season, 

 is by layering the vine in a ten-inch pot four or five feet 

 up the cane. This shoot may be allowed to sfet a few 

 bunches, and the stem below will make about as good a 

 growth as if it had not been layered. After ripening 

 the grapes, the layer may be cut off at the lower end of 

 the rafter, and may be used for planting out, or as a pot 

 plant, while the main stem will be in good shape for 

 its third season's growth. 



A third and very good method of pruning the vine 

 after being planted out one year, especially if its growth 

 has not been strong, is to cut the cane back to the bot- 



