42 LAKE SUPERIOR. 



even only by help of the trees. Climbing along the ledges and from 

 one trunk to another, we at length reached the top, a mass of rock, 

 intermingled with spruce trees. The wind blew fresh and we were 

 in hopes to be free from the flies and musquitoes, which were rather 

 troublesome below. The result showed that we had reasoned cor- 

 rectly as to the musquitoes, but not at all as to the flies, who, as we 

 now learned for the first time, by actual experience, affect high and 

 dry places. ( They surrounded us in such swarms that it was impos- 

 sible to remain quiet for a moment ; brushing them away with 

 branches was of no use, and even a musquito veil proved no 

 protection. J The meshes being rather larger than their bodies, 

 they alighted for a moment upon it, and then deliberately walked 

 through. When the wind blew very hard they would make a lee for 

 an instant, and then reappear in clouds. On arriving at the camp, 

 we were speckled with blood, particularly about the forehead and 

 back of the ears. Our faces looked as if charges of dust shot had 

 been fired into them, each sting leaving a bloody spot. 



It was discovered this evening that some things had been left be- 

 hind, and our short experience had already taught the need of some 

 others, so two of the party volunteered to go back in a light canoe 

 to fetch them from the Sault. 



July 2d. — It was thick and rainy to-day, so we did not leave our 

 camp. In our immediate neighborhood were several lodges of In- 

 dians ; " gens du Lac^'' as our men called them, from whom we 

 bought trout. They had the general features of the Ojibwas, but 

 ragged and dirty. 'They subsist by fishing, and seem to bear out 

 the remark that among savage nations, the fishing tribes are the 

 most degraded.J Their lodges were composed of a dome-shaped frame- 

 work of poles, over which were laid pieces of birch bark. We often 

 afterwards met with these frames at our encampments, but without 

 the bark covering, which they probably carry off with them. They 

 are perpetually shifting their quarters, for no reason but mere rest- 

 lessness, often leaving a prosperous fishery to go off to some other 

 place where the prospects are entirely uncertain. 



During our stay at this place, finding it inconvenient to eat our 

 meals all together, we separated into four messes, each having its 

 boat and its tent, and making its separate camp-fire and cuisine. 



