134 



Popular Science Monthly 



goods are 36 in. wide, there are eight of 

 these seams. So 6 in. have been lost. This 

 requires a portion of another strip 8 in. 

 plus 1 3^2 m - plus % in., equal to ioj^ in. 

 wide. Along the top edge, turn back 2 in. ; 

 turn under the raw edge, and sew as in- 

 dicated at F. The end flap is next attached 

 as shown at G, using the method shown at 

 D and allowing the finished heading to 

 stand outside. If the stripes are of equal 

 width, get a tin-can lid, a tea-cup, or other 

 circular object the same diameter as the 

 width of stripe, and with chalk draw a 

 line on the goods half the width of the 

 stripe from the edge of the valance, which 

 must be first trimmed straight and true. 

 Scribe alternate semi-circles in successive 

 stripes, and cut out a wavy line on this 

 scribing. The raw edge so produced must 

 be bound with woolen tape, which can be 

 purchased where the cloth is procured. It 

 will take about eighteen yards of tape to 

 bind the valance for this awning. 



An alternate method would be to cut a 

 slash, 4 in. long and 1 in. wide, Yi in. on 

 each side of each stripe line, or each alter- 

 nate stripe line, if the stripes are equal and 

 regular. For an irregular stripe a spacing 

 can be selected and repeated without regard 

 to the stripes. This method will require 

 30 to 40 yards of tape for binding. Be 

 sure to use wool tape in red, blue, white 

 or green, all of which are fast colors. Cotton 

 tape is always bleached by the weather. 



The frame is made of ^-in. galvanized 

 pipe and malleable fittings. Cast fittings 

 are too bulky. For this frame two elbows, 

 and six tees are required. Four of these 

 tees, which form the hinges against the 

 porch posts, must be cut with a hack-saw, 

 as shown at J in the drawing. This will 

 reduce the length of the tee arm to about 

 h /% or % in. From a piece of galvanized 

 sheet steel, say }/% in. or number 10 or 12 

 gage, make four double brackets as shown 

 at K. Drill and countersink these on 

 the center line of the back for two 10 by 

 iJ4-in. wood screws. Drill a hole for a 

 short ^8-in. bolt through both ears. When 

 they are finished this far, drop them in a 

 glass jar filled with bluestone solution, 4 oz. 

 bluestone or blue vitriol to a pint of water. 

 Leave them for several hours. Remove 

 from the jar and dry. Polish them with 

 an old rag, and you will find all the spots 

 left after the galvanizing was removed are 

 now plated with copper and rust proof. If 

 dipped in strong vinegar before placing in 

 the bluestone bath they will plate more 



readily and take a heavier coat. Do the 

 same with the cut tees and the hinge bolts. 

 When all this is attended to, the frame is 

 assembled by screwing up the threaded ends 

 of the pipe into the fittings. Make up 

 good and tight, everything square, and lay 

 the awning down as shown in G, lay the 

 frame on it in the proper position, and pro- 

 ceed to put on the pocketing material. 

 This is a strip of the awning material, 

 3 in. wide and 7 ft. long, sewed to the line 

 where the slope stops and the valance 

 begins. When sewed true on one side, turn 

 the strip over the frame and sew to the 

 awning above the frame as shown at L. 

 This must be done along the front so that 

 the weight of the frame holds the awning 

 taut when lowered. For the ends, it is only 

 necessary to put on a strip of the material 

 3 in. wide near the hinge. All raw edges of 

 the valance as well as the seams for the 

 ends and where the valance joins the slope, 

 should be bound with the wool braid, care- 

 fully run on by machine. Soft laid cotton 

 cord about x /i in. in diameter, run through 

 small galvanized-iron pulleys, will serve to 

 raise and lower the awning. A lead of this 

 should be placed in the center of each panel 

 and all cords led to one end where a cleat is 

 provided to fasten them. 



Fastening an Oar-Lock to Keep 

 It from Falling Out 



IF an oar fits a lock snugly the lock is 

 likely to be pulled out of the socket when 

 the oar is re- 

 moved, and it 

 may be lost. I 

 have found that 

 fastening such a 

 lock in the man- 

 ner illustrated 

 will prevent 

 this. A stout 

 cord is tied to 

 one arm of the 

 lock and run 

 through a screw- 

 eye turned into 

 the block or oar- 

 lock base as shown in Fig. 1. A small 

 metal bar is fastened to the other end of the 

 string. The bar when turned parallel to 

 the string, as in Fig. 2, can be slipped 

 through the eye of the screw. To keep the 

 bar from slipping out of the knot a depres- 

 sion should be filed out in its center, 

 circling the bar. — G. P. Lekmann. 



Fastening an oar-lock 

 securely with a string 



