Popular Science Monthly 



427 



burned off, but care must be taken not to 

 scorch the planking. 



To do this job properly, get a good- 

 gasoline blow torch and hold the flame on 

 the paint to be removed until it blisters. It 

 can then be readily removed with a wide 

 putty knife. Take care to extinguish any 

 shavings that might take fire and always 

 bear in mind that the torch will burn the 

 woodwork if held too long in one spot. 

 Start at the deck of the boat and work 

 toward the keel. After the paint has been 

 removed, the woodwork should be well 

 sandpapered and a thin coat of white shellac 

 applied to hold it until the job is finished. 

 This shellac should then be rubbed down 

 with No. OO sandpaper before the paint is 

 applied. If the burning is not necessary, 

 the woodwork may be scraped with a regu- 

 lar cabinet scraper, care being taken not to 

 gouge into the wood. Before commencing 

 to paint the hull be sure that all planks 

 are smooth; that the joints are all flush, 

 smooth and fair and that all the holes are 

 puttied up. Then ap 



ply one coat of good 

 lead color and two 

 coats of white. Zinc is 

 not recommended for 

 this use as it makes 

 too hard a finish. 

 White lead is of softer 

 body and can be 

 scraped down and re- 

 newed without pro- 

 ducing ridges. The 

 copper bottom paint 

 is the last put on and 

 is generally left until 

 the boat is ready to 

 be launched, as this 

 paint hardens better 

 in the water than in 

 sun and air. Scrape, 

 varnish, and paint 

 the interior of the 

 boat before she goes 

 over. Do all. the 

 work before the boat 

 is put in the water; 

 for the chances are 

 it will never be done 

 if left until after 

 the boat is launched. 

 See that no paint 

 gets on the screens 

 covering the intake 

 to water cooling- 

 pipes, or closets, to 



Galvanized iron ^_ 

 sides and roof .Sy- 



flL 



clog them. Do a good job and paint 

 every fraction of an inch of the wood- 

 work so that your boat will be a pleasure 

 and credit to you all season. 



Scraping decks is hard work at best, but 

 if a varnish remover is used to soften up the 

 old varnish, it may be readily accomplished 

 with a cabinet scraper or putty knife. The 

 decks should then be gone over with sand- 

 paper and well dusted before the varnish is 

 applied. Three coats of varnish make a 

 very satisfactory job if the woodwork is dry 

 and warm and the varnish is applied with a 

 soft, wide, flat brush. 



The operator should become accustomed 

 to the different kinds of buoys which will be 

 met with on his trip. The Government has 

 seen fit to chart the buoys for different 

 bodies of water. The most common types 

 are known as the spar buoy, Fig. 25, can 

 buoy, Fig. 26, bell buoy, Fig. 27, whistling 

 buoy, Fig. 30, nun buoy, Fig. 28, and gas 

 buoy, Fig. 29. All of these are what is 

 nautically known as floating buoys. There 

 are also various kinds 



Length of boat-t-lp— 6 ' «|« £>' — » 



Platform 



fV 11 



& \ Pla 



Plan 



Timbers laid between 

 platforms to earn boat 

 during; the winter 

 °Fig.20-A 



Three ways to protect the motorboat from 

 the weather when it is not in service 



of spindles and 

 beacons which are 

 usually of a station- 

 ary nature, being 

 built on some wreck 

 or reef. 



Buoys have been 

 called "the sign posts 

 of the waterways" 

 and there is probably 

 no definition which 

 could define them 

 more clearly. Red 

 buoys should always 

 be passed on the op- 

 erator's starboard or 

 right hand side when 

 entering the harbor; 

 black buoys should 

 be passed on the op- 

 erator's port ©r left 

 hand side, while 

 buoys marked with 

 red and black hori- 

 zontal bands should 

 be given a wide berth 

 under all conditions 

 as they are generally 

 used to locate a 

 wreck or some other 

 submerged obstruc- 

 tion. Buoys marked 

 with black and white 

 perpendicular mark 



