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other end dry for finishing the erasure. Use 

 a clean piece of cotton each time you have 

 occasion to remove any paint. 



Varnish is not applied merely for the 

 purpose of securing a highly polished 

 surface, but also as a protection to the 

 underlying coats of color. 



Have your paint shop clean before you 

 start varnishing. Allow no open doors, or 

 cracks to conduct a dust laden current of 

 air against the 

 freshly varnished 

 surface. 



Let the heat of 

 the shop and that 

 of the varnish be 

 the same, say about 

 70 degrees. Never 

 have it cold. 



After having 

 dusted off the car 

 take the large var- 

 nish brush (23/2 in.) 

 and put the varnish 

 on, but not too 

 thick. Do not fill 

 your brush so 

 heavily that the var- 

 nish will run down 

 the handle while you 

 are working. Just 

 put enough paint on 

 the brush to go over 

 the space easily, and 

 never work all the 

 varnish out of the 

 brush before taking up a fresh brushful. 



Do not tickle the surface with short 

 strokes; but brush easily from one side to 

 the other, and then up and down. This is 

 called cross-brushing, and gives uniform 

 depth to the coat, which is just what you 

 want to secure. For all surfaces that can- 

 not be conveniently coated with the big 

 brush, use the %-in. brush. Varnish the 

 moldings or raised portions around the 

 panels the same way in which they run; 

 that is, follow their lines along or around 

 the surfaces they enclose. You can run 

 across them with the big brush, but always 

 finish with the small brush in the way 

 described. 



Always finish one section first, if possible. 

 Take a door or a panel and complete it 

 before going on to the next one. Pick out 

 the small areas first and by the time you 

 tackle a big stretch you will have more 

 confidence to handle it. 



As you go along, take up any varnish 



Popular Science Monthly 



Putting on the initials of the owner's name 

 in the center of the front automobile door 



that has run or shows a tendency to gather 

 thickly at the edges of the panels, etc. 

 Never miss any spot, however small. If 

 you do, you will just naturally try to patch 

 it, (after the rest of the surface has set) and 

 botch the whole job. 



In varnishing the wheels, be careful to 

 keep the varnish from running down the 

 spokes and settling thickly between them 

 where they enter the hub. After varnishing 

 the rim, spin the 

 wheel easily, holding 

 the brush lightly 

 against it to smooth 

 out and join the laps 

 on the rim. Finish 

 the hub in the same 

 manner. 



When the job 

 looks right, surfaces 

 evenly covered, no 

 thick places at the 

 edges, and all places 

 coated, put your 

 brush away arvd 

 leave the car alone. 

 Stand the hood 

 cover on its edge so 

 that the dropping 

 dust will not fall on 

 it. Lay a board sup- 

 ported on two tres- 

 tles over the mud- 

 guards for the same 

 purpose, or use an 

 adjustable shield. 

 Allow plenty of time for the last coat of 

 varnish to dry. Let it stand for two or 

 three days at least. When thoroughly dry, 

 wash it with clean, cold water, dry with a 

 soft chamois and the car is ready for use. 

 You may possibly have some trouble in 

 mixing your priming coat. Better mix it a 

 day or two before you begin work. This 

 will give you a chance to try it on the sur- 

 face, for drying and hardening qualities. 

 Don't get it thick. It may need a little 

 more Japan to harden it or turpentine to 

 thin it out, but it will not require any 

 additional oil. Keep it in a tightly topped 

 can, and it will be all right when needed. 

 Good coach putty should dry hard, and 

 stand sandpapering without scaling or 

 softening. One authority suggests a putty 

 composed of 3 parts whiting and raw lin- 

 seed oil mixed with 1 part white lead. A 

 little Japan should be added to harden it. 

 This putty must be stiff and well worked 

 up. Another prescription calls for a mix- 



