Making a Trusty Bob-Sled 



Plans for the construction of a coasting 

 bob-sled that will carry several persons 



By B. Francis Dashiell 



^S^f 



Rear sled 



THE bob-sled described and detailed in 

 the accompanying plans is very 

 strong and capable of carrying any 

 weight that can be placed upon it. The 

 powerful brake and steering apparatus 

 will give a strong sense of security when 

 coasting down even the steepest inclines. 



The frame should be built first. This 

 consists of two lengths of spruce, pine or 

 oak, 2 by 3 in. and 13^ ft. in length. The 

 various holes and notches are cut and bored 

 in the required positions as shown. At 

 the location of the steering wheel and 

 front or guiding sled, oak boards 6 in. by 

 12 in. and 1 in. thick are bolted across, 

 as shown. 



The sleds 

 are next con- 

 structed . 

 The rear sled 

 is 24 in. long 

 and 18 in. 

 wide, the 

 sides being of 

 oak boards 

 10 in. wide 

 and not less 

 than iM in. 

 in thickness. 

 The edges 

 are rounded off as shown. Three cross- 

 pieces of oak are cut out 18 in. long and 

 8 in. wide and notched to receive the side 

 pieces and also the two long frame pieces. 

 The parts of the sled are joined together with 

 long screws. The front or guiding sled is of 

 the same width as the rear sled but is only 

 18 in. long and the sides are only 8 in. high. 

 Four cross-pieces are used on this sled and 

 are made of oak 18 in. long and 5 in. wide. 

 They are screwed between the two sides 

 in the same manner as those of the rear 

 sled. The top of each cross-piece has a 

 notch x /i in. deep and 6 in. wide cut in it 

 to receive the 6 by 16-in. oak board as 

 shown. Use screws for all fastenings. 



The runners for the sleds are made 

 from iron bars % in. by 1 in. and bent 

 around the edges of the sled sides. Screws 

 are placed on about 3-in. centers and 

 have their heads countersunk in the run- 



Guiding sled' 



Ropes 



Plan and side elevation of a bob-sled that is capable 

 of carrying any weight that can be placed on it 



ners. Smooth the iron well with a file, 

 then polish with oil and emery cloth. 

 Make two iron straps or U-rings and bolt 

 to the rear of each side pie«e of the front 

 sled as indicated in thie drawings. These 

 are used to fasten the ends of the steering 

 cables. 



The brake is made from oak or pine 

 1 in. in thickness and is in the form of a 

 box with the ends turned up or rounded 

 off. The two side pieces are 6 in. wide 

 and 18 in. long with the ends cut off at 

 an angle of 45 deg. as shown. The bottom 

 and ends are covered with i-in. boards, 

 using screws for fastening them in place. 



Get three 

 *™^ i^-in. iron 

 angles 6 in. 

 long, and 

 bolt them to 

 the bottom 

 of the brake 

 box as 

 shown. The 

 box is sus- 

 pended be- 

 tween and 

 from the two 

 long frame 

 timbers by 

 means of four swinging arms, each of oak 

 12 in. long, 2 in. wide and 1 in. thick. 

 Make all the connections with bolts, using 

 washers and lock nuts. Rivet over the 

 ends of the bolts to prevent the nuts 

 from working loose and coming off. The 

 brake is operated with a lever of oak 

 28 in. long, 234 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. 

 It is pivoted on a cross-support bearing 

 made of a 12-in. length of %-in. wrought 

 iron water pipe. Make two plates from 

 sheet iron about 1/16 in. thick and bolt 

 one on each side of the lever. A hole 

 with a diameter of 1-3/32 in. should be 

 cut in the plates and lever so that it will 

 fit nicely on the pipe bearing. Drill the 

 holes in the pipe support as called for in 

 the plans and then place the lever over 

 the pipe. The two ends should now be 

 hammered down flat and drilled for the 

 bolts. Place cotters in the holes, one on 



929 



