120 HAKDKNOT CAMP 



of the inscrutable rules of modern chivalry. Muncaster 

 Castle itself stands on a steep bluff on the Esk, a mile 

 or so above the old camp. It is impossible to guess 

 how long it has endured as a stronghold ; guarding, as 

 it does, a ford in the estuary, it was, no doubt, occupied 

 and fortified by native tribes long before the Roman 

 occupation. The conquerors would not be slow to 

 secure such an important position, and, in fact, the 

 foundations of the feudal keep are of Roman work. 

 During some alterations in the building a few years 

 ago a fine gold coin of Theodosius the Great was 

 discovered. The ancient tower still frowns across 

 the ford it was built to defend, the central block of 

 modern additions.' l 



To reach the head of Esdale the traveller may avail 

 himself of a funny little railway, constructed some time 

 ago for the use of some iron workings, which, happily 

 for the beauty of the vale, have proved abortive. He 

 will not fail to admire the Protean versatility of one 

 of the Company's officials, who, leaving Ravenglass in 

 the capacity of guard, jumps from his van on arriving 

 at a station, becomes station-master, produces a key, 

 unlocks the booking-office, and turns into booking- 



1 Over the lychgate of the old churchyard of Muncaster is graven 

 the following mediaeval inscription, which, seeing that it is in a dead 

 language, perhaps may be committed without offence to the discreet 

 obscurity of a footnote 



' ??tc locus ijk sacrr rst ; tiic nullt mingm fas tzt.' 

 The legend is paraphrased on the other side of the gate as follows : 



' Cfjts place, ti)tte toalls anS all aruunto rAat ; 

 So nought unholp or unsrnnlo t\tre.' 



