192 THE VALLEY OF ENCHANTMENT 



that race which, for three centuries, was chiefly dreaded 

 by the people of Britain of those restless, ruthless 

 Vikings who cut the throats of Columba's monks, harried 

 our coasts from Chichester to Caithness, from Chester to 

 the Clyde, and drove with dripping swords and flaming 

 brands through the Christian settlements of Ireland. In 

 one virtue these modern Norsemen excel almost every 

 other Christian race. Only among Mohammedans can 

 be found such gentle consideration for, such ^affectionate 

 treatment of, beasts of burden and of draught. The 

 stages are often long and steep ; but it adds vastly to 

 the traveller's enjoyment that the mild, intelligent eyes 

 of the good dun ponies, disfigured by no blinkers, are 

 never strained in distress or terror. No blows, no sore 

 backs, no harsh tones, disturb the perfect confidence 

 between man and beast. Even the lazy ones respond 

 generously to a cheering cry or a signal from the hand, 

 and the high-spirited ones obey a warning that conveys no 

 suggestion of rebuke. Chiefly this is owing to the good- 

 nature and sweet-temper of the drivers and horse-owners ; 

 it may be left to speculation how far these qualities, here, 

 as in Mohammedan lands, are owing to the absence of 

 public-houses and the universal sobriety of the people. 

 Certainly, fifty per cent, of the abuse of horses in our own 

 country may be traced to bad liquor and too much of it. 



One thing let me beg the angler bound for Norway not 

 to forget. In these far-winding dales there are many 

 children, but no sweet-shops. Let him therefore reserve 

 an ample corner in his tackle-box for toothsome delicacies : 

 he will find his reward in watching the effect upon 

 palates which have never before experienced the exquisite 

 sensation caused by chocolate and butter-scotch, and 



