Winter in the Riviera. 353 



the side of the mountain behind us, climbing for an hour, 

 steady pull. Then he struck off into an obscure path that 

 promised more direct descent. We lost the path, and lost 

 our way, and had to plunge down a steep, broken, rocky, 

 muddy side of the great hill full of gorges and deep chan- 

 nels. It was an old olive orchard, old and half dead; the 

 trees are about the si?e of apple trees, and their tops look 

 as if covered with sage leaves. We got back after a two 

 hours' tramp, and I was quite used up. Then we had 

 "breakfast" at twelve o'clock. Then another tramp of 

 twenty minutes, at the end of which I back out. He has 

 gone on, but will be back for me to get another pull before 

 dinner. This is the history now, with nothing for diversion 

 but to hear these Englishmen quarrel over the comparative 

 merits of the different stopping places along the coast and 

 the different hotels. There is nothing of interest in it all 

 to me, except so far as it may become promotive of hy- 

 gienic advantage to Spencer and myself. He professes 

 great benefit already, boasting of eight hours' sleep the three 

 previous nights each, and he falls asleep almost every time 

 he sits down. He slept nearly all the time in the cars, and 

 is evidently making up for his past losses. If nothing 

 happens, it will undoubtedly do him great good. 



... I promised to write of his Morals, which is to be a 

 great thing, of course, though I have not seen it. Four 

 chapters are in type, and all is done, or mostly done, but 

 the last three chapters of the Data of Ethics. He will 

 publish it in a volume in April / I judge that it is to be 

 immense, from the titles of his chapters which he has re- 

 hearsed to me. He is now revising the first four chapters, 

 but will not let me see them till they are all corrected and 

 all together, which it will take two or three weeks to bring 

 about. It will now begin to be seen what "evolution" is 

 for, and I find the main reason why he has jumped over to 

 ethics is that people had got tired of waiting for some 

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