266 General Notices. 



taking care to keep the graft side uppermost, in order that the ascending 

 sap mav flow into it, instead of forcing the latent huds into shoots. It is 

 also necessary to prepare the graft so as to have the hack of the leaves 

 towards the stock, in order that they may be kept in their natural position 

 when the stock is laid down horizontally. This method will succeed with 

 or without claying, if the stocks are placed in a close, moist hot-bed, or 

 under a hand-glass. Perhaps it may be as well to caution amateurs not 

 to lay down their grafted plants unless they are grafted quite low ; if the 

 grafts are placed more than six inches above the pol, to lay them horizon- 

 tally would impede the union. — {Gard. Chroniclr, 18-13, p. 17().) 



Suhstitvte for Glazed Frames in Hot-beds. — In tlie Bhcmlandtsche Gar- 

 teuzeitvng, a substitute for the glazed frames of hot-beds and greenhouses 

 is described. Instead of glass, the frames are covered with a fine white 

 cotton cloth. In order to render this more transparent, and enable it to 

 resist moisture, it is covered with a preparation, the ingredients of which 

 are 4 oz. of pulverized dry white cheese, 2 oz. of white slack lime, and 4 

 oz. of boiled linseed oil. These three ingredients having been mixed with 

 each other, 4 oz. of the whites of eggs, and as much of the yolk, are ad- 

 ded, and the mixture is then made liquid by heating. The oil combines 

 easily with the other ingredients, and the varnish remains pliable and 

 quite transparent. The expense of a forcing bed arranged in this man- 

 ner is inconsiderable, and it yields at the same time many other advan- 

 tages. Such a hot-bed needs not the anxious attention required by the 

 ordinary ones covered with glazed frames. During the strongest rays of 

 the mid-day sun, they do not require any particular covering or shade; 

 the atmosphere therein preserves a nearly equable temperature almost 

 the whole day, and requires only to be changed from time to time, accord- 

 ing to circumstances. — {Id. 1843, p. 55.) 



Ch-owing Chrysanthemums from Layers. — A good plan to make small 

 and pretty plants of the Chrysanthemum is as follows : The young 

 shoots which have grown to a considerable length have their points lay- 

 ered about the month of August, in small pots. As soon as they are 

 well rooted they are cut from the parent stock, repotted, and placed for a 

 short time in a shaded jjlace until they recover. They are then subjected 

 to the same treatment as the others, and generally flower on stems 

 about a foot or eighteen inches in height. The best soil is equal parts of 

 loam, dung, leaf-mould and sand. 



There is one error in the cultivation of Chrysanthemums, into which 

 the inexperienced amateur is apt to be led, and that is, neglecting or pay- 

 ing but little attention to his plants after the flowering season is past. 

 They are either allowed to remain in a warm greenhouse, and forced into 

 growth, or they are thrown aside and neglected until late in the summer, 

 when he recollects that they are wanted for winter flowering. I^ike the 

 greater part of herbaceous things of this description, they are tenacious 

 of life and easily grown ; but if they are to be cultivated well, a regular 

 system of management is necessary. After the flowering season is past, 

 and the old stems cut down, the plants should be removed from the green- 

 house or conservatory, and placed in a cold frame, where they are merely 

 protected from severe frost. Here they should have plenty of air, and in 

 five days the lights should be drawn quite oft", and the plants fully ex- 

 posed. If they are kept too close and warm in winter, they begin to 

 grow fast, the leaves are yellow, and the stems weak, and, consequently. 



