THE STRAWBERRY JANUARY 1906 



tions of the manure with the soil so that 

 the moisture may dissolve it into available 

 form for plants to feed upon at the very 

 moment they need it most. A word of 

 caution: don't cultivate while plants are 

 in bloom unless soil is moist enough to 

 prevent dust from flying. Cultivate after 

 each picking. The straw, which has been 

 raked close to the plant, holds moisture 

 there and also affords a clean place for 

 the berries to ripen on. In this way cul- 

 tivation may proceed during fruiting time 

 without soiling the berries. In our own 

 experimental beds we have been able, by 

 following these methods, to increase size 

 and yield by more than 20 per cent. The 

 manure spreader is one of the most val- 

 uable tools on the farm, but we do not 

 advise its use on the strawberry beds, as 

 it does not put the manure in the right 

 place. In preparing soil for plants the 

 manure spreader is ideal. 



W. A. J., Peoria, 111. I wish to set my straw- 

 lierries on clayey new ground. How can I 

 best prepare it? 2. I will set two rows 100 

 feet long. How many plants will it require? 



1. We take it that your ground is 

 virgin soil. This being true, it will be 

 unnecessary to use fertilizers, as there 

 should be plenty of plant food to pro- 

 duce a big crop of berries. It should be 

 broken up the fall preceding the setting 

 of the plants. 



2. Set your plants two feet apart in 

 the row, which will, of course, require 100 

 plants for the two rows. 



H. A. B., Spokane, Wash. I am opening up 

 a new place and want to put in one-half acre 

 of strawberries. What variety would you 

 advise me to set? 



You should set plants to represent each 

 season in order to have a continuous sup- 

 ply of fruit. For instance. Climax, Au- 

 gust Luther, Senator Dunlap, Pride of 

 Michigan and Sample would be a selec- 

 tion that would take you through the 

 entire season from very early to the end. 

 Other varieties representing the same 

 seasons will do equally as well. 



C. L. M., Winchester, Ind. I have on hand 

 quite a supply of chicken droppings, also 

 some well-rotted stable manure, in which 

 there is no weed seed. When, if at all, 

 would you advise putting it on my plants? 

 2. Would you advise scattering it over the 

 plants or between the rows? 3. What is the 

 best way to handle Gandy to get largest re- 

 sults? 



1. We would mix the chicken drop- 

 pings with four or five times the quantity 

 of stable manure, and put it on in the 

 fall just before mulching. If put on too 

 early in autumn it will stimulate too much 

 vegetative growth, encouraging foliage 



rather than fruit buds. In your locality 

 plants start making fruit buds in September. 

 2. Scatter the manuie lightly between 

 the rows. 



1 The Gandy plant has a tendency 

 to expend its energies in developing 

 foliage. To check this tendency you 

 should discontinue cultivation early in 

 the fall, going deep enough at the last 

 cultivation to cut some of the roots. Do 

 not work among them later than the mid- 

 dle cf August, except to keep down the 

 weeds. In preparing soil for the Gandy 

 use no nitrogenous manures. Avoid us- 

 ing the chicken droppings on the Gandy. 

 They should be grown in narrow matted 

 rows, but do not allow plants to crowd 

 each other in the row. The first bloom 

 of Gandy does not supply enough pollen 

 to impregnate the stigmas. Therefore 

 you should have another bisexual, strong 

 in pollen; set every third row. In this 

 way you can greatly extend the fruiting 

 season and increase the yield of the 

 Gandy. Where these methods are closely 

 followed, the Gandy is a leader and money 

 maker because of its lateness as well as 

 ts prolificacy. 



A. L. E. , Smithtown Branch, N. Y. Have I 

 made a mistake? I have kept all blossoms 

 and runners off my spring-set plants. Now 

 is it too late (August 14, 1905) to allow one 

 to start from each side of the mother plant? 



You have made no serious mistake. 

 In fact, you have greatly strengthened the 

 mother plants by relieving them of the 

 burden of runner-production. Now they 

 are strong and vigorous and it is not too 

 late for them to send out runners, and the 

 young plants will have ample time to 

 build up fruit buds. To assist them to 

 root rapidly throw a little dirt with the 

 hoe on the runner just back of the node. 



grubs will be eradicated. We have ex- 

 perimented with all kinds of sod in the 

 ways suggested and found them very 

 effective. 



J. H. F., Hudson, 111. The leaves of my 

 plants look dry and curl up, and upon exam- 

 ining them I find the leaf drawn together 

 w ith a web, and on opening up the leaf find a 

 little worm on the inside. I burned over a 

 part of my bed after picking, and that part 

 no longer appears to be affected. What is the 

 trouble and what the remedy? 

 Your plants are infested with the leaf 

 roller. The eggs are deposited on the 

 foliage by a little brown miller and after 

 the roller hatches it weaves a web which 

 draws the leaf together for its protection. 

 As soon as this is done it starts feeding 

 upon the tissue of the leaf. This is a 

 very common insect enemy of the straw- 

 berry, but seldom does a great deal of 

 damage. Parasitic insects — the lady bug 

 and the spider — feed upon the larvse of 

 the leaf roller, thus preventing rapid mul- 

 tiplication. The burning over of the 

 bed after fruiting is one of the best and 

 cheapest methods of destroying them. 



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J, B. H,, Union City, Pa, The field I intend 

 to set to strawberries next year was manured 

 heavily last spring and planted to potatoes. 

 In digging the potatoes I find a great many 

 white grubs, and the potatoes were badly 

 eaten. Now will these grubs be in the ground 

 next spring? This is the best piece of ground 

 I have for strawberries, and could use it for 

 this purpose if I can get rid of the grubs in 

 any way. 



If the soil is left undisturbed, grubs un- 

 doubtedly will be present in the soil next 

 spring, but if the soil be broken up and the 

 furrows left loose and open, it will expose 

 the larvse to severe freezing and thawing, 

 which is fatal to them. This also aids in 

 getting rid of the parents of the grub, 

 which are the May and June beetles. 

 Chickens, turkeys and hogs will leave 

 corn for white grubs and will work hard 

 all day in the hunt for them. If you are 

 so situated that you can follow these 

 methods you need have no fear but the 



Page 20 



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