THE STRAWBERRY JUNE 1906 



he never would get a large crop from the 

 plants. It is necessary to give the plants 

 one year in which to develop vigor and 

 strength and making them capable of pro- 

 ducing large crops of big red berries. 



4. Plants will easily bear two large 

 crops; sometimes the second crop is even 

 larger than the first. A third crop may 

 be grown if the best of care has been 

 given the bed, but there will be a lessen- 

 ing in the quantity. We advise the grow- 

 ing of but two full crops, plowing the old 

 plants under and growing some other crop 

 on that particular piece of ground. 



5. The very best of all the mulches 

 is wheat straw. 



■*. ^ 



C. W. M., Narrowshurg, N. Y. I put out 

 about one thousand plants last August — 

 plants sent me by a friend. They were cul- 

 tivated until late fall and then were put under 

 a heavy stable manure mulch until May 1. 

 They look to be in good condition, many 

 that appeared dead last fall looking well and 

 thrifty now. Please advise which would be 

 the better way — allow them to fruit, or pick 

 off the blooms? Have read The Strawberry 

 since its first issue, and desire to follow the 

 business in the best way possible. 



Plants set in August of last year should 

 be so well established in the soil that 

 they may produce a small crop of berries 

 this season without injury to the plants. 

 We say this with the understanding that 

 your plants are vigorous and thrifty. 



T. McD., Cable, Wis. Will runners have to 

 be kept off plants during the fruiting season? 

 2. How often should the fruiting bed be 

 cultivated? 3. Which is the better way to 

 have the rows run — north and south or east 

 and west? 4. In single-hedge row should 

 not all runners save two be removed? 5. In 

 shipping berries a short distance is it better to 

 do so by night or by day? 6. Should any 

 berries be picked while yet wet with dew or 

 rain? 7. Should the berries be fully ripe 

 when they are to be shipped a distance of 150 

 miles? 



1. You need not remove your lunners 

 during fruiting time. 



2. The fruit bed is better when not 

 cultivated at all, provided there is a good 

 mulch between the rows, as there should 

 be. Of course, if there is no mulch be- 

 tween the rows, the tramping of the pick- 

 ers through the rows would pack down 

 the soil and affect the growing berries. 

 If, therefore, there is no mulch between 

 the rows, you should cultivate after each 

 picking. 



3. It makes no difference which way 

 the rows run so far as the points of the 

 compass go. They may be set east and 

 west, or north and south, or obliquely 

 with equally good results. 



4. You are right that there should be 

 but two runners from the mother plant 



when the single-hedge row system is 

 followed. 



5. Night shipping is always the best 

 for berries, of course, as the sun's heat 

 causes them to fall down badly when 

 shipped in the day time. 



6. Pick no berries while they are still 

 wet with morning dew or from rain. 



7. Berries that are to be shipped a 

 distance of 150 miles should be just a 

 little under ripe. 



F. H. M., Roswell, N. M. Our soil here is 

 loose and will grow anything we plant if a 

 sufficient quantity of water is supplied. Few 

 strawberries are grown here; we get a few 

 green, knotty ones from another part of the 

 Southwest, and I am confident some of the 

 old-timers here don't know how a good 

 strawberry tastes. I. When should we have 

 berries from plants set this spring? 2. If 

 they bloom early and first blossoms freeze, 

 will it have any bad effect on later blooming? 



Your soil being loose, we would advise 

 you to roll it very firmly before setting 

 the plants, because if it is left in too loose 

 a condition, it will allow an over-supply 

 of air to come in contact with the bac- 

 terial germs, which will cause them to 

 become too active; this will work up all 

 the humus and manure into available 

 form, while if it is pressed tight, it will 

 allow just enough air to keep the bac- 

 terial germs in normal condition. There 

 is no reason why you cannot grow straw- 

 berries as well as any other kind of fruit. 

 We trust that you will get some very 

 fancy fruit so that you can show these 

 old timers that you understand your 

 business. 



1. Plants which are set out this spring 

 should not be allowed to fruit until the 

 spring of 1907. Just as soon as the buds 



open, pinch them ofT; this will throw the 

 strength to the mother plants, and they 

 will develop a large crown system, which 

 will produce a big crop of berries next 

 season. 



2. As only part of the bloom opens 

 at one time it is not likely that one or 

 two frosts would injure the crop to any 

 great extent. 



L. H., Neenah, Wis. We have decided to try 

 the twin double-hedge row and would like 

 some information: 1. In setting the plants 

 twenty-four inches apart in the row would 

 you let one runner set between this space, and 

 should we cut it loose from the mother plant 

 as soon as it is set and started to grow? 

 2. How late in the fall should we work the 

 ground? 3. Is it good to cut runners off 

 during fruiting time the second year? 4. 

 Would you spray the young plants during 

 the summer? 5. Should we cultivate the 

 ground in the spring when the plants are old 

 enough to bear fruit? 6. Would you advise 

 us to put manure between the rows in the fall 

 before covering them with straw? 7. When 

 you take the straw off in the spring would 

 you let it lie between the rows? 



1. In setting the plants twenty-four 

 inches apart in the row, we would allow 

 each mother plant to make four runner 

 plants, layering these directly in the row. 



2. The cultivation depends upon 

 climatic conditions. If the fall is late 

 and the weather continues Warm and nice, 

 you can continue cultivation until the lat- 

 ter part of September, but if the fall comes 

 early, the cultivation should be discon- 

 tinued accordingly. 



3. It is unnecessary to cut the runners 

 from the fruiting bed, but it will do no 

 harm to do this. In^fact, it will help the 

 plants to produce larger berries. Of 



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