THE STRAWBERRY OCTOBER 1906 



best results and make them go farthest. 

 4. We do not like to use sawdust as 

 a mulching as it tends to sour the ground. 

 As your sawdust is well decayed and you 

 purpose removing it after berries are 

 picked, the danger of souring would be 

 slight, but it would be a big job to re- 

 move the sawdust, and a large amount of 

 it would be tramped into the soil. If 

 you can get anything else, do not use 

 either sawdust or tanbark. 



E. D. J , Frederlcktown, Ohio. Do you think 

 to grow su.anbe'ries all in the single-hedge 

 row system would be a; good as to have part 

 Id double-hedge system? I sm growing both 

 ways this year, but like the .-ingle row tlie 

 be. t, because I think it the easiei way to cul- 

 tivate. What do you think about it.'' And 

 what varieties would you recommend to grow 

 that way in this locality' How far apart 

 would you put the rows? 



As you appear to get netter results 

 from the single-hedge row, and to like 

 this system better than any other, there is 

 no reason why you should not follow it 

 with all varieties. All varieties grow well 

 in single-hedge row, but some varieties 

 will not do well in double-hedge or nar- 

 row-matted row, especially those varieties 

 which develop an exceedingly heavy 

 foliage. There is no question that the 

 single-hedge row is the simplest and 

 easiest method to follow. It makes a 

 little more work to keep the runners off, 

 but when this is properly done the resuits 

 are so large that one is well repaid for t^ie 

 extra work. The distance apart to se. 

 them will depend somewhat upon the 

 varieties, those making a few runners 

 only should be set twenty-four inches 

 apart, while those which make runners 

 abundantly should be set thirty inches 

 apart in the row. One advantage of the 

 single-hedge system is that you may set 

 the rows closer together than under any 

 other system. Three feet will afford 

 ample space between the rows, and, if 

 land is limited, thirty inches will do. Al- 

 most any of the old standard varieties 

 will do well in the single-hedge system. 

 In your state the Excelsior, Warfield, 

 Senator Dunlap, Glen Mary, Dornan and 

 Sample give ample returns. 



W. D. C, St. George, S. C. How may I tell 

 a bisexual from a pistillate plant? 

 2. I have one row of Texas (B) beside a 

 row of Aroma (B). When I get berries next 

 season what will they be? And will the 

 plants taken up be a combination of the two 

 varieties, or do the plants in each row retain 

 the characteristics of the mother plant? 



There really is no way to tell a bisexual 

 from a pistillate plant so far as the plants 

 themselves are concerned. But it is easy 

 to detect the difference after the bloom 

 opens, as the bisexual flower has both 

 pistil and anthers. There is a cone in 



the center of the flower which is sur- 

 rounded by anthers. The latter extend 

 beyond the cone or pistil, while the pis- 

 tillate variety has only the cone, contain- 

 ing the pistils. The bisexual flower 

 always is larger than the flower of the 

 pistillate. 



2. The fact that you have set two bi- 

 sexuals side by side will not change the 

 characteristics of either fruit or plant. 

 Keep the runners of each row from run- 

 ning into each other, and then the partic- 

 ular variety will bear the same character- 

 istics as the mother plant and will, of 

 course, bear the same name. 



J. J. H., Bellefontaine, Ohio. What kind of 

 an idea would it be to plow under a crop of 

 cow peas in the fall and then turn them up 

 again in the spring for a strawberry bed? 

 Would there be time after strawberries are 

 picked to sow a crop of peas and have them 

 for fei*ilizer as stated above? 



In an ordinary season you may sow 

 cowpeas aftei berries have been picked 

 and get quite a large growth of vines, and 

 It will be well to turn the peas under 

 in the fall, provided you sow about five 

 pecks of rye to the acre after the cowpeas 

 are turned under. The rye will act as a 

 cover crop, protecting the ground from 

 puddling during the winter rains and 



snow. This ground should be rebroken 



in the spring. This will thoroughly mix 

 the vines up with the soil and put it in 

 an ideal condition for plants. 



S. E. A., East Aurora, N. Y. I have taken 

 the best of care of my berry plants and they 

 are a picture — big healthy plants forming a 

 double-hedge row from sixteen to eighteen 

 inches wide, with an open space of about 

 twenty inches between the rows. Now my 

 land washes some, and it occurred to me that 

 I could sow the whole piece to oats about 

 September 15 and they would help to mulch 

 and stop its washing. The freezing will kill 

 them so there will not be anything left of the 

 oats next spring. I shall cover the plants 

 with bean straw and buckwheat straw. Will 

 you kindly give me your opinion? 



It will be wise for you to sow oats 

 between the rows of your strawberry 

 plants about the middle of September, as 

 we note from your letter that these plants 

 have made a very large vegetative growth. 

 The oats will not do any great injury and 

 it is quite likely that they will prevent 

 the ground from washing so badly during 

 the rainy season. We also would sug- 

 gest that you apply mulching quite heavily 

 where the ground washes badly. The 

 bean straw and buckwheat straw should 

 make ideal mulching. As a rule we 



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