THE STRAWBERRY NOVEMBER 1906 



the row every six or seven inches. This 

 will leave the plants in hills, and it will 

 give each hill plenty of room to develop 

 fancy berries. 



2. The immense foliage produced on 

 your plants must be on account of your 

 soil having a large percentage of nitrogen 

 in it. Pistillate varieties would not make 

 any more foliage than bisexuals. If your 

 berries do not fruit, then it must be be- 

 cause there is no bisexual to furnish 

 pollen. You could set some bisexuals in 

 among your plants where you have thinned 

 out the others, but of course these would 

 be so much younger than the plants you 

 now have that they would not be able to 

 furnish enough pollen to make a full crop 

 of berries on the pistillate varieties, but it 

 would help enough to give you berries 

 for your own use. 



3. We note that your ground is flat. 

 If it lies low, and water stands on the top 

 after a rain, it would be a good plan to 

 make small ridges before setting the 

 plants. Or you could set the plants on 

 the level and keep a furrow between the 

 rows to take up the surplus water. 



I. M. C, Hopkinsville, Ky. We are thinking 

 of utilizing some four and one-half feet of 

 ground lietween our rows of fruit trees in a 

 young orchard, as follows; Plant two rows 

 of strawberry plants three feet apart with 

 plants eighteen inches apart in the row, thus 

 making two hedge rows, each eighteen inches 

 wide, with a space of eighteen inches between 

 the vines. Cultivate with a compressed culti- 

 vator with a pair of revolving cutters eighteen 

 inches apart. Take off two crops then let 

 the runners run over the space between the 

 vines for the third year. After picking the 

 third year plow out the bed vines and let the 

 runners cover their space. After the fourth 

 year's picking plow out the center. Thus we 

 would have hedge rows for two years and a 

 matted row for two years, with a change of 

 plants every two years. How will this plan 

 vvork.' Can you suggest any better? I take 

 The Strawberry and like it very much. 



^'our method of growing strawberries, 

 also your way of handling them between 

 the rows of young fruit trees, will give 

 good results, but we do not approve of 

 your method of allowing the plants to 

 remain four years before turning them 

 under. As a rule, two crops are as many 

 as profitably may be grown on one bed of 

 plants. Of course, we understand that 

 you purpose setting these plants in the 

 orchard, and that the ground would not 

 be valuable for anything else after you 

 had taken ofl the two crops of berries; 

 and in this case it might be advisable to 

 carry out your plans, for even if the third 

 or fourth crop did not produce fancy ber- 

 ries, you undoubtedly would get enough 

 to more than pay expenses. And while 

 you are cultivating the strawberries you 

 are giving the trees the attention they re- 

 quire. The principal objection to allow- 



ing your berries to grow a third and fourth 

 crop is that the trees will by that time be 

 in bearing; certainly this will be so if they 

 are peach trees, and it is not a good plan to 

 cultivate peach trees later than August 1, 

 while it would be too early to discontinue 

 cultivating strawberries. If cultivation is 

 continued up to late in the fall it will 

 keep the trees in a growing condition, 

 which will throw their energies to grow- 

 ing wood instead of maturing fruit buds. 

 If they are apple trees, we do not think 

 it would do any injury to them. 



^ <^ 



C. H., Creighton, IVIo. I would like to speak 

 a good word for your valuable paper, The 

 Strawberry. It has been a great help to me. 

 I am only an amateur in the strawberry busi- 

 ness. I set one-fourth acre of plants last 

 April and tried to follow your method of 

 cultivation the best I could. I have a fine 

 stand of plants with but few vacancies. I am 

 growing them in single and double hedge 

 rows, according to variety. Everyone that 

 has seen them says it is the finest patch they 

 ever saw. 



I have seen frequent mention in The Straw- 

 berry about filling in vacant places in the 

 row. I will give my method of filling vacant 

 places, and would like to have your opinion 

 of it, whether it is as good as taking plants up 

 and setting them in vacancies. I will gi\e 

 sketch below showing how I filled in the 

 double-hedge row: 



O 



The Vflcanl Space 



• O O O • 



O O O O O O 



After the Runner Plants Grew 

 The mother plant at each end of tlie vacant 

 spot was allowed to make an extra runner 

 which I layered straight in the row to fill in 

 the center of row, and I let the other two 

 runners from the mother plants extend down 

 the row, filling the outside of row. I have 

 filled in places in the single-hedge rows ten or 

 twelve feet long by layering the runners 

 .straight in the row from each end of the 

 vacant space, and the plants seem to be as 

 large and thrifty as the others. 

 2. When is the best time to apply wood 

 ashes, and how much to the acre.' 



Yours is an ideal way when the vacant 

 places are such that the runners from the 

 mother plants will come together. In 

 The Strawberry suggestions we referred 

 to long-distance vacancies, where it was 

 impossible to have the runners fill in. 



2. The best time to apply wood ashes 

 is in the spring just after the ground has 

 been broken up. Forty to fifty bushels 

 per acre would be enough. Scatter tliem 

 very evenly and work thoroughly into I he 

 soil befcre setting the plants. If your 



Page 226 



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