THE STRAWBERRY FEBRUARY 1907 



only; never over the plants. If you prac- 

 tice cultivating the fruit bed a lot of labor 

 will be saved by putting the mulching just 

 along the plants on either side of the row, 

 making it broad enough to keep all of the 

 berries clean. By this method your plants 

 never will bleach, as they are left in the 

 open air. 



.^ ^ 



C. C. J., .'\niesbury, Mass. Is there greater 

 affinity between certain kinds of strawberries 

 in the matter of pollenation than there is 

 between other certain kinds, time of blossom- 

 ing, etc., being the same? 



2. In the matted-row system would it pay, 

 before uncovering the plants in the spring, to 

 rake the straw from between the rows on to 

 the plants and cultivate once or twice, pro- 

 viding the ground is such that it can be done? 



3. What strawberries should be added to the 

 following list to lengthen the season and in- 

 crease the crop — Clyde, Glen Mary, Pride of 

 Michigan, Splendid and Dornan? 



In bisexuals that furnish an abundance 

 of rich pollen and bloom concurrently 

 with the pistillates we doubt if there is 

 any difference in results of pollenation. 



2. The objection to following this 

 plan would be this: After the mulch has 

 lain on the ground all winter the ground 

 becomes very wet and soggy, and it 

 would take it some time to become dry 

 enough for cultivation. This would make 

 it necessary for the excessive mulch that 

 was raked upon the plants to lie there so 

 long that it would bleach the plants and 

 make them tender. 



3. You can lengthen your season for 

 berries by adding to your list some extra- 

 early varieties, such as Excelsior and 

 August Luther, and we might say by 

 adding a late variety like the Gandy, as it 

 is later by two or three days than the 

 Pride of Michigan. 



C. W. L. , LaGrange, Ore. We put out 

 40,000 plants — Clark's Seedling and Down- 

 ing' s Bride, principally the former, last June. 

 They grew finely and put out lots of runners 

 which blossomed and bore quantities of fine 

 berries. Should we have picked the buds off? 

 Will these young plants do to transplant this 

 spring? We intend to put out more berries. 

 2. Will you tell me the nicest way to pack 

 berries for shipping? 



It is a common occurrence for straw- 

 berries to produce a light fall crop in your 

 locality, and as your plants were strong 

 and vigorous the few berries produced in 

 the fall by the mother plants will in 

 no way weaken the runner plants that 

 you intend transplanting in the spring of 

 1907. Howe\er, we never advise taking 

 plants from a fruiting bed; that is to say, 

 it is poor policy to try to grow plants and 

 fruit in the same bed at the same time, as 

 that is asking plants to do double work. 



2. The most attractive way to pack 

 berries for shipping is to lay the top layer 



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My 2 -in -I Harrow Makes a Perfect 



Seed Bed in HALF THE TIME 



B^ 



J. K, najlor, a 

 l>racticnl farmer 

 tvho iDTeoted Ibis 

 great tlme-Bariiig 

 -i-ln-l Harrow. 



ECAUSE it does the work of 

 both a Spring Tooth and 

 Spike Tooth Harrow at 

 one time and at vne operation. 



Bfcjiuse, \on Bpe, mv harrow 

 is BOTH HARROWS IN ONE. 

 If ynu hnvo to t'Oo\erynur fifld 

 four tinii'suow — \nu'll only havo 

 to po over it tivice with, my 

 harrow. 



If your ground is in such shnpe 

 that y ou now go over it twice. t lien 

 only once over will give >ou an 

 even better seed bed when you use my harrow, 

 Qud you can fol.ow right along with a planter. 



That means if it rains overnight you haven't 

 got your work to do over again. 



On newly broken sod you can work across 

 the furrows (instead of with them) ami not pull 

 up a single sod or choke the teeth. Vou can pre- 

 pare new ground with my harrow in a THIRt) 

 tho time you can working the old way— using two 

 harrows separately. 



One lever instantly adjusts my harrow so you 

 can use the spring teeth alone — or the ejiike 

 tfeth alone— or both together— or you can throw 

 all the teeth up out of the wa,. so tlmt the frame 

 will slide along the ground like a stone-boat. 



Wlien a live farmer knows aliout my harrnw he 

 wants it. I can name, off-hand, twenty places near 

 my fiirui in Cass Co., Miclt.. where you'll find good 

 spring tooth and spike tooth harrows out in the 

 barnyard with grass growing up around them. 



The farmers have thrown them away and are 

 using my harrow alone— and they're MAKING 

 MONEY by doing it 



HOW 1 CAME TO INVENT THE 

 2-IN-l HARROW. 



I always had the same trouble you've had in 

 getting my ground ready. 



It seemed like there ought to be Hjme way 

 arouml it. So my lirother and I got busy one 

 winter AND SOLVED THE PROBLEM. 



This is the way we figured: 



A siiring tooth harrow wnnts to keep digging in 

 all the time. That keei's the frame pressed hard 

 on the ground and it's a tnnt;h lull on tliti horses. 



A spike tooth wants to keep jumping up all the 

 time, you have to put some heft on tlie top to 

 keep it down. The horses have to drag the heft 

 as well as the harrow. 



So we made a 2-in-l harrow — spring and spike 

 teeth together. Ihat season we used it on our 

 iurn\ and it worked just as we figurecl it woulil. 



The spikes kept the springs from 'ligging in too 

 far. and the dig of the springs kept the spikes 

 down to their work- and once over (except on 

 extra bad ground) left a smooth, even, perfect 

 eeed bed. 



That's why my 2-in-l Harrow was easier on the 

 horses than either a sj-ring tooth or s|uke tooth 

 alone auil SAVED OVER HALF OUR TIME 

 getting ready for planting. 



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 on selling othei-s in the neighborhood. So 1 

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Naylor Mfgr. Co., 4 Sprins" Av.. LaGrangre, IIU 



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Page 48 



