THE STRAWBERRY MARCH 1907 



the second crop. This will leave eight 

 acres for you to pick from in the spring 

 of 1910. 



3. The cost of stocking, assuming 

 that you mean to ask the cost of plants 

 and setting them, will be about $66.50, 

 calculated thus: 14,000 plants for the two 

 acres, at an average of $4 per thousand, 

 $56; seven days' time setting, at $1.50 

 per day, $10.50. 



4. Your mistake is one that too many 

 other growers are making, as all surplus 

 runners should be pulled ofl as soon as a 

 sufficient number of runners are set to 

 make an ideal row. This will increase 

 the strength of the remaining plants; and 

 this means a larger yield and better fruit. 

 As the runners now have the start of you, 

 if you will take a common garden rake 

 and pull it across the row through the 

 plants, it will. remove the weak and poor- 

 ly rooted plants. In doing this work, 

 stand erect and pull upward on the rake, 

 which will draw the weaker plants out of 

 the ground, as the rake will go under the 

 runners. If this proves too harsh, use 

 the fingers of the hand as the teeth of a 

 rake and fewer runners will be pulled out. 



5. The number of runner plants 

 which 1,000 mother plants will produce 

 in a propagating bed will depend almost 

 entirely upon the variety used, as it is the 

 nature of some varieties to make a very 

 large number'of runners, white others are 

 scant producers. For illustration, 1,000 

 Excelsior, August Luther, Michel's Early, 

 Bederwood, Tennessee Prolific, Crescent, 

 Warfield, Lady Thompson, Splendid, 

 Klondike or Dunlap plants will produce 

 35,000 or more vigorous plants in the 

 propagating bed. Climax, Texas, Lovett, 

 Wolverton, Ridgeway, William Belt, 

 Parsons' Beauty, Miller, Haverland, Enor- 

 mous, Aroma, Brandywine, Bismarck, 

 Gandy, Sample, New Home, Midnight, 

 Mark Hanna and Stevens' Late Cham- 

 pion will produce 20,000 to 25,000 to 

 every thousand mother plants. Clyde, 

 Glen Mary, Nick Ohmer, New York, 

 President, Clark's Seedlings, Challenge, 

 Arizona, Hummer, Pride of Michigan, 

 Dornan, Marshall, Parker Earle, Rough 

 Rider, Bubach and Oregon Iron Clad 

 will produce about 15,000 plants from 

 each thousand set out. This, of course, 

 is only an estimate, and we have given a 

 number that you may safely count upon 

 in almost any season. This estimate con- 

 templates strong, vigorous plants only, 

 such as will be well to set for fruiting 

 purposes. Almost any of these varieties 

 will produce almost double the number 

 of plants named if all lateral and inferior 

 plants are allowed to take root. By lat- 

 eral we mean the small, undeveloped 

 runner that is sent out from a runner wire 

 between a node and a plant. Let the 

 plants remain in the propagating bed until 

 you are ready to set them in the fruiting 

 bed. Never allow a plant in the propa- 

 gating bed to produce fruit before they 

 are transplanted. To do so would result 



My 2 -in -I Harrow Makes a Perfect 



Seed Bed in HALF THE TIME 



B^ 



«l. K. Aajlor, a 

 practical fftrmer 

 irho iDveoted IhU 

 great tlme'savlug 

 'i!-ln>l Harrow. 



ECAUSE it does the work of 

 both a Spring Tooth aDd 

 a Spike Tooth Harrow at 

 one time and at o)ie operation. 



Becnuse, voii spe. mv borrow 

 is BOTH HARROWS IN ONE. 

 If you hfive to go over your fifld 

 four times now—>ou' 11 only have 

 to Ko over it twice with, my 

 harrow. 



If your ground is in pnch shape 

 that > ou now goover it twice.then 

 only once over will give jou an 

 even better seed bed when >ou use my harrow, 

 and you can foliOW right alont: with a planter. 



That means if it rains overnight you haven't 

 got >our work to do over again. 



On newly broken sod you can work across 

 the furrows (instead of with them) and not pull 

 up ft single sod or choke the teeth. You can iire- 

 piire new ground with my harrow in a THIRD 

 the time you can working the old way— using two 

 harrows separately. 



One lever instantly adjusts my harrow so you 

 can use the spring teeth alone — or the spike 

 teeth alone— or both together— or you can throw 

 all the teeth up out of the way so that the frame 

 will slide along the ground like a stone-boat. 



Wlien a live farmer knows about my harrow he 

 wants it. I can name, off-hand, twenty places near 

 my farm in Cass Co., IVIich., where you'll find good 

 spring tooth and spike tooth harrows out in the 

 barnyard with grass growing up around them. 



The farmers have thrown them away and are 

 usinR my harrow alone— and they're MAKING 

 MONEY by doing it. 



HOW I CAME TO INVENT THE 

 2-IN-l HARROW. 



I always had the same trouble you've had in 

 getting my ground ready. 



It seemed like there ought to be some way 

 arounfi it. So mv brother and I pot busy one 

 winter AND SOLVED THE PROBLEM. 



This is the way we figured: 



A spring tooth harrow wants to keep digging in 

 all the time. That keeps the frame pressed hard 

 on the ground and it's a tout;h pull on the horses. 



A spike tooth wants to keep jumping up all the 

 time. >ou have to put some heft on tlie top to 

 keep it down. The horses have to drag the heft 

 as well Qs the harrow. 



So we made a 2-in-l harrow — spring and spike 

 teeth together. That season we used it on our 

 farm and it worked just as we figured it would. 



The spikes kept the springs from <ligging in too 

 far. and the dig of the springs kept the spikes 

 down to their work— and once over (except on 

 eitra bad ground) left a smooth, even, perfect 

 seed bed. 



That's why my 2-in-l Harrow was easier on the 

 horses than either a spring tooth or sjiike tooth 

 alone and SAVED OVER HALF OUR TIME 

 getting ready for planting. 



The best proof of how really good my harrow is 

 lies in the actual fact that every harrow I nave 

 sol'l has since sold from two to five more. 



My Harrow is such a really wonderful thing 

 and such a TIME and MONEY saver for the 

 farmer that I expect each harrow I place will keep 

 on selling others in the neighborhood. So I 

 have decided to make a 

 SPECIAL CONFIDENTIAL PRICE 



to the first man in a locality who wr.tes me— the 

 confidential price will be AWAY DOWN, fn. 



Don't even consider bulling a Harrow tilt yuu g*l 

 my confidential Introduction Price. 



Write quick to 



J, R. NAYLOR, 



Naylor Mfgr. Co.. 4Sprin^ Av..L.aGrangre.IlU 



(Not Incorporated.) 



34 Years Selling Direct 



Our vehicles and harness have been sold direct from our 

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 You are out nothing if not aatiefied as to style, quality 



and price. 



Wa are the 

 Largest i 



Manufacturers 

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selling to the con- 

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 We make 200 ttyles 

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Elkhart Carriage S Harness Mfg. Co. 

 Elkhart, Indiana 



in greatly lessening its vigor and fruiting 

 power. 



6. The difference between the prop- 

 agating and the fruiting bed is this: In 

 the fruiting bed you are working to pro- 

 duce big crops of big red berries, while in 

 the propagating bed all effort is expended 

 to secure as many strong plants as the 

 mother plant is capable of producing. 

 Some people seem to think that the sole 

 object of the propagating bed is the mul- 

 tiplication of plants. This is entirely 

 erroneous, as it requires much more 

 science to produce a well-developed plant 

 — one that retains the fruiting vigor of 

 the mother plant — than it does to grow 

 big berries in the fruiting bed. In pre- 

 paring the ground for a propagating bed 

 the following rules should be observed as 

 closely as circumstances will permit: In 

 the winter manure the ground with about 

 twenty tons o* well-decayed stable manure 

 to the acre. In the spring turn this 

 manure under and, as soon as danger 

 from frost is over and the ground is thor- 



Pige 80 



oughly warmed, sow a bushel and a half 

 of cowpeas to the acre. When the peas 

 have grown two or three inches high, go 

 over them with a one-horse weeder. This 

 will break the crust, preventing any weed 

 seed from germinating, at the same time 

 admitting air to the roots. In a few days 

 repeat this operation, going in the opposite 

 direction. The field should have at least 

 four weedings, reversing the direction 

 each alternate time. Every time this is 

 done you may think the peavines are 

 being torn to pieces, but in a day or so 

 after the work is done the peas will 

 straighten up and go on to thrifty growth. 

 In the fall when the peas have become 

 nearly ripe and the vines fibrous, turn 

 them under with a breaking plow. We 

 usually roll them down before plowing. 

 Turning the peas under returns the man- 

 ure to the surface, thus you will have a 

 heavy coating of humus both on the top 

 and the bottom of the furrow. Follow 

 this by sowing five pecks of rye to the 

 acre. The purposes of the rye is to hold 



