686 THE POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY, 



ally as a juror ought not to be underestimated, yet I think still greater 

 good conies from the increased responsibility of the people at large. 

 There will be fewer criminals when every citizen feels that he is in 

 some sense a conservator of the peace. The direct educating influ- 

 ence of trial by jury has often been remarked by those who have 

 studied the influences that mold the character of nations. Bentham, 

 who certainly will not be charged with venerating anything be- 

 cause it is old, in speaking of the jury as a public educator says : 

 " Every judicatory, of which a jury forms a part, is a school of jus- 

 tice ; without the name, it is so in effect. In it the part of master is 

 performed by the judge ; the part of scholars by the jurymen ; and 

 what takes place, takes place in a company more or less numerous 

 of spectators. The representation there given is given by a variety 

 of actors, appearing in so many different parts." * I believe that the 

 people will not willingly give up an institution to which they owe 

 so much of their self-reliance and ability to govern themselves until 

 stronger reasons than any yet suggested are presented. 



THE CHEMISTKT OF COOKERY. 



By W. MATTIEU WILLIAMS. 

 XXIV. 



SINCE the publication of my last paper, I have learned the proper 

 name of the Swiss compound there described as fondevin, accord- 

 ing to my recollection of its pronunciation in Switzerland. In an old 

 edition of Mrs. Rundell's " Domestic Cookery," it is described as fondu. 

 A similar dish is described in that useful book " Cre-Fydd's Family 

 Fare," under the name of cheese souffle or fondu. I had looked for it 

 in more pretentious works, especially in the most pretentious and the 

 most disappointing one I have yet been tempted to purchase, viz., the 

 twenty-seventh edition of Francatelli's "Modern Cook," a work 

 which I can not recommend to anybody who has less than £20,000 a 

 year and a corresponding luxury of liver. 



Amid all the culinary monstrosities of these " high-class " manuals, 

 I fail to find anything concerning the cookery of cheese that is worth 

 the attention of my readers. Francatelli has, under the name of " Eggs 

 h la Swisse," a sort of fondu, but decidedly inferior to the common 

 fondu of the humble Swiss osteria, as he lays the eggs upon slices of 

 cheese, and prescribes especially that the yolks shall not be broken ; 

 omits the milk, but substitutes (for high-class extravagance' sake, I 

 suppose) " a gill of double cream," to be poured over the top. Thus 



* Bentham's works, vol. ii, p. 125. 



