ARTIFICIAL PONDS. 17 



of malaria, or as a breeding place for mosquitoes. If near to the dwelling' 

 house, whence such a pond may constantly be viewed from the window or 

 piazza, it, together with aquatics and other suitable plants, may form a part of 

 the flower garden with beautiful and charming effect. A pond of irregular 

 outline is to be preferred, and if on the lawn, the masonry should be entirely 

 hidden or surrounded by ornamental subtropical plants. On the north and 

 northwest sides, should be planted clumps of Bamboos, Ornamental Grasses 

 and Reeds, with stibtropical plants for summer adornment. Back of these 

 plants, some shrubs and trees for wind-breaks should be planted, if such be 

 not already on the ground. On the same side of, and in the pond, which should 

 be opposite to and farthest from the dwelling, should be clumps of Lotus; 

 these should be planted in divisions of the pond, walled in so as to keep them 

 from rambling through the whole pond. The size of such a pond must be 

 according to location, and should bear some proportion to the size of the entire 

 flower garden. One from sixty to one hundred feet long and twelve to fifteen 

 feet wide, will be large enough to accommodate a fair collection of these plants 

 and make an attractive feature; but it may be made larger or smaller, according 

 to individual requirements. 



The best method of getting to work is to draw apian to a scale, having 

 previously taken the dimensions of the ground, and considered the levels, the 

 source of water supply, overflow and outlet. Having determined what to do, 

 (including the disposal of the soil to be excavated, which will aggregate from 

 seventy-five to one hundred and fifty cubic yards for a pond of the size men- 

 tioned), mark out the pond, using stout set-sticks, about one foot long, nicely 

 pointed; these may be firmly stuck in the ground, about three feet apart, 

 closer on a curve, so that an exact outline of the pond may be apparent and 

 corrections made if necessary. When the outline is considered satisfactory, 

 drive the sticks firmly into the ground until but three or four inches remain 

 above the surface; then proceed with the excavation. If the soil have to be 

 hauled away, horses and carts will be necessary, but if it can be used in the 

 vicinity, then the work can be accomplished with the aid of wheelbarrows. 



If the ground is loamy, and of a stiff consistency, dig the sides perpendicu- 

 larly, and excavate to the depth of two feet six inches; this will allow about 

 two feet depth of water when completed, which, for general purposes, is 

 sufficient; the walls should be eight inches thick, built of brick, and laid in 

 cement; the joints must be all well filled in. The wall may be tapered 

 near the top, and finished with one four-inch brick set flat or on edge. 



