the meat is cooking. Sometimes he spread prepared mustard on 

 meat before cooking, and sometimes he touched it up with a 

 sliver of garlic. But he believed generally that good meat had its 

 own flavor, and that heavy or bizarre seasoning wasn't right. 

 Salt, pepper, a little butter, after the meat came off the fire. 



There is a way to tenderize tough meat and even improve its 

 flavor. South Sea Islanders have used it on fish and meat for gen- 

 erations. You can buy their ingredient in the larger grocery 

 stores it's papaya juice. Put your meat in a pan or dish, pour 

 over it some of the papaya juice, just enough to cover the bottom 

 of the dish, and leave for a few hours before cooking. I have read 

 recently that the juice of any citrus fruit will have a similar effect. 



Wingy was a wizard with game and fish. Did you know that 

 the fishy ducks, coot and shelldrake (merganser), can this is no 

 gag! be made to taste second only to mallard, canvas-back, and 

 black duck? The fishy taste is mainly in the oil sacs in the skin 

 of these birds. Skin off the breasts, section them from the breast 

 bone with a sharp boning knife, soak for an hour or two in luke- 

 warm water to which a tablespoonful of soda has been added, 

 and broil with thin strips of salt pork cross-hatched over the 

 flesh. Or pan-fry with a minimum amount of oil or grease. 



One of our most memorable meals in the cabin came about 

 two days after we'd had hard luck on partridge. There were six 

 of us to feed, and only two birds. Wingy dressed the birds, cut 

 them up as you would a frying chicken, and baked them deeply 

 within, and surrounded by, a pot of baking beans! We liked it 

 so well that we asked for it and got it each hunting season. 



Here's his tried recipe for a sauce for partridge, ducks, wood- 

 cock, or venison. Into a hot frying pan in which a tablespoon of 

 stock is smoking very slightly, dump about 4 ounces of red cur- 

 rant jelly. As the jelly melts down, add a dash or two of water to 

 get the desired consistency. When the jelly is blended, add a 

 tablespoon of red wine, claret preferred. Squeeze in about a 

 quarter of the juice of a lemon. Spoon this in small quantities 

 over the bird or venison at serving time. Grape jelly is on the 

 same plane. A teaspoonful of soy sauce, or about a third that 

 much of Kitchen Bouquet, is also a good added touch. 



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