ORCHID 



ing any decayed and bruised parts, they may be potted 

 and l>:isketed, and removed to their proper quarters, 

 waterinc: sparingly until they start new action. 



It i* customary in some establishments to hang newly 

 impiirted Orchids by the roots, tops down, from the roof 

 of the house or beneath 

 the benches until they 

 show signs of new action, 

 but they invariably suf- 

 fer more or less from 

 this practice and are bet- 

 ter treated as above. 



Pots, Bankets, ete.- 

 Many Orchids are best 

 cultivated in the ordinary 

 earthen pots and pans, 

 more especially terres- 

 trial species and a few 

 of the epiphytal kinds, 

 which grow on rocks in 

 marshes, and among 

 quantities of humus and 

 fern roots. A majority 

 of the epiphytal species, 

 however, need special 

 pendulous Structures that will ad- 

 s<.apes. mit air to circulate freely 



to the roots; otherwise, 

 these are liable to decay through excess of water if con- 

 fined in close pots when inactive during winter, which 

 must eventually weaken the constitution of the plants. 

 Figures 1575-1583 fairly illustrate the best and most 

 practical pots and baskets for successful cult\ire. Fig. 

 157.3 shows the Orchid basket most ( 

 is the best adapted for the general cul- 

 ture of Cattleyas, Coryanthes, Den- 

 drobiums, Epidendrums, La?lias, Mas- 

 devallias of the Chimajra section, On- 

 cidiuras, and a majority of Orchids with ^ 

 pendulous flower-scapes. They i " "^'' 

 made of cedar, teak-wood, cypress, or ^ I 

 any durable wood. The wood is cut "^ | 

 into square (or round) sticks of any 

 length desirable and in proportionate 

 thickness from K-1 in., and carefully 

 perforated at each end. Through the 1576. An Orchid 

 holes is inserted a strong wire, which cylinder, 



is looped at the upper end when finished used for very tall 

 in order to receive the wire hanger. species. 



These baskets can be as deep as de- 

 sired, but three sticks on each of the four sides are 

 usually enough for most Orchids, with two or three 

 placed crosswise through the bottom, to hold the com- 



1575. Commonest and best 



of basket for general culture 

 of Orchidi 



po; 



ade by twisting together and 

 bending dowii in the middle two pieces 

 of galvanized or copper wire, forming 

 four ends to in.sert in the basket-loops 

 and a loop or hook at the top by which 

 to suspend it. 



The Orchid cylinder (Fig. 1576) is 

 very useful for standing on the bench 

 or pit, and is used for Renantheras, 

 Aerides, Vandas, Angraecums, Epi- 

 dendrums, and many other tall plants 

 that are too tall or difficult to suspend. 

 Cylinders are made in all sizes and any 

 diameter desired, with either square or 

 round sticks. They are bored a short 

 distance from the ends and a wire in- 

 y serted through them, with a small 



I H block between each stick, to make an 



I a opening for air. When large enough 



J-mLBJU the sides are brought together and 

 fastened. The depth is adjusted by 

 movable cross-pieces. 



The Orchid raft (Fig. 1577) is made 

 in much the same way as the cylinder, 

 but is left tiat with the openings be- 

 tween closer together. Oblong-square 

 hard, rough wood, an inch or less thick, 

 answer much the same purpose. The Orchid raft or 

 block is very useful for many species, such as Cattleya 

 citriiia, Barkerias, £pidendrum falcatum, Dendrobium 



An Orchid raft. 

 Used for much 

 the s.ime purpose 

 as the cylinder. 



Je>ikiiisii. Oiieidium Limmiiiyliii and Papilio, Scuti- 



The earthen basket (Fig. 1578) is useful when the 

 compost is fine and when the roots do not require much 

 atmospheric action; also to properly mature tissue in a 

 few terrestrial species, thereby inducing them to flower 

 freely. The earthen basket is especially useful 



1 openings 



Earthen basket. 



For Stanho- 

 peas and other 



for Acinetas, Peristerias with pendulous scapes, Stan- 



hopeas, etc. ; it is made with < 



sides and a round one in the center to 



admit pendulous scapes. 



The perforated pan (Fig. 1579) is usu- 

 ally made only in small sizes and used 

 for Bulbophyllums, the concolor type 

 of Cypripedium, Dendrobiums, and 

 many other small-growing species that 

 do well suspended from the roof. 



The perforated Orchid pot (Fig. 

 1580) is for bench use and is useful 

 for many epiphytal Orchids that are 

 not to be suspended, the perforations 

 or holes supplying abundant air to the 

 roots, a safeguard against losing them 

 through overwatering in winter. 



Figs. 1581 and 1582 show the stand- 

 ard earthen pot and pan for terrestrial 

 species. They should have the drain- pendulous 

 age holes made on the side at the base, scapes issue 

 instead of directly underneath, as a J,l!i!!°^^!!„ v ." 

 preventive against earth-worms enter- ^°^^ "'"'^ *""■ 

 ing from the benches. 



Poltinr/. Soil, etc., for Terrestrial 0»-c7i ids. -Terres- 

 trial Orchids as a general rule grow best under pot cul- 

 ture. Potting material for the following genera— Acan- 

 thephippium, Bletia, Calanthe, Cyinbidium, Cypripe- 

 dium insigiie and most of the hardy species, Cyrtopo- 

 dium, Habenaria,Liparis, Microstylis,Peristeria,Phaius, 

 Pleione, Sobralia, Thunia, and some others — should con- 

 sist of about one-third each of chopped sod with some 

 of the fine soil removed, chopped live sphagnum and 

 leaf-mold, adding a little ground bone for some of the 

 sirong- growing kinds. One -third of the pot space 

 -liould be devoted to clean drainage, covered with sphag- 

 num or rough material to keep it open. After removing 

 all decayed portions, the roots should be carefully dis- 

 tributed and the compost worked in gently but firmly 

 around them, leaving the surface a little convex and 

 slightly below the rim of the pot as in Fig. 1581 (the 

 dotted lines denote drainage required). The con-ex 

 surface gives the rhizome an opportunity to dry out fre- 

 quently, thus avoiding fungi, which are troublesome to 

 some species. 



In repotting terrestrial Orchids sufiicient pot room 

 should be given to last a year or two if possible, as they 

 dislike to have their roots disturbed oftener than is 

 necessary. The best time to repot is just before the 

 rooting period, or when they are starting their new 

 growths in spring. The deciduous species of Calanthe 

 can be easily increased at this time, 

 if desired, by removing the old bulbs 

 and placing a number together in a 

 pan or shallow box, covering them 

 partly with compost and placing them 

 in a warm house until they start action, 

 after which time they should be potted 

 as desired, two or three toffpther. 



Anoectochilns. Arp.ii.lnlliims. Cypri- 

 pediums, Disas.* : !>• m^.Sjiathoglot- 

 tis, and manv alli.d :.•. n. r:i, -row best 

 under pnt cultnr.-. l.iit ..tlnrwise re- 



qui 



are 



and Compost 

 .-The roots of 

 ■ usually very 



i), capable of 



1579. 

 Perforated pan. 



corky substance (velamei 



absorbing and retaining i 



siderable time. In their native homes a great many of 



the roots are aerial or grow in loose, fibrous material, 



such as moss and the fine roots of Polypodiums and other 



ferns, where they have free access of air at all times. 



It is important that they receive similar treatment un- 



