PEAR 
cion is generally, if not always, imperfect; and such 
uncongenial combinations are therefore usually short- 
lived. The quince is the only dissimilar stock upon 
which the Pear is extensively grown. Quince stocks for 
this purpose are largely imported from france. The 
Angers quince is generally preferred for this purpose. 
These stocks are usually planted in nursery rows at the 
age of two years, to be budded during the following 
summer, in the same manner as Pear stocks. When 
intended for dwarf trees, nurserymen usually cut them 
back after one year's growth from the bud to the nearly 
uniform height of 18 inches, although with the more 
upright-growing varieties it is by many deemed prefer- 
able to branch them even 6 or 8 inches lower. Aside from 
the height at which they should be branched, the prun- 
ing and management should be identical with that pre- 
scribed for standards, with the important exception that 
when planted out for fruiting the junction between the 
quince and the Pear should be 3 or 4 inches below the 
surface to encourage the formation of roots from the 
Pear. Trees thus planted will commence to bear, while 
yet growing, solely from the quince stock, and will con- 
tinue to produce fruit after rooting from the Pear, thus 
affording the early fruiting of the dwarf, as well as the 
permanency of the standard. 
Not more than a specimen or two should be per 
mitted to grow upon a dwarf the first and second years 
after planting. Such trees, if left to fruit freely, will 
almost certainly be ruined from overbearing before 
they are fully established. many varieties when grown 
as dwarfs can never be safely allowed to mature more 
than a small portion of the fruit which they will natur- 
ally set. 
While several varieties are found to be especially sue- 
cessful when grown upon the quince most others prove 
only moderately so, requiring careful and expert man 
agement to insure satisfactory results A few others, 
of which Bosc may be named as a prominent case, are 
obstinately unsuccessful upon the quince, and even 
when double-worked upon a dwarf of a congenial 
variety, their success appears to be by no means as 
sured. 
Dwarf trees trained as hereinbefore specified, are 
commonly known as half-standards Other and more 
elaborate forms are known as pyramids cordons 
etc., descriptions of which are not deemed necessary 
here. 
8. Choice of trees.-aside from the selection of the 
location for an orchard, the first important particular 
is the selection of the trees, leaving the choice of varie- 
ties for subsequent consideration. Trees of one year's 
growth from the bud are to be preferred for the follow- 
ing 
ing 
reasons: ( 1 ) Fewer roots need be injured or lost in 
the process of lifting and replanting, for which reason 
the tree may be expected the more promptly to recover 
from the shock of removal. (2) The single season's 
growth may be cut back and the top commenced to suit 
the preferences of the planter. (3) The top will present 
little or no obstacle to the force of the wind until the 
roots shall have gained such hold upon the soil that 
there will remain little liability to displacement from 
this cause. (4) The risk of failure from removal is 
greatly diminished, while the more prompt recovery and 
increased rate of growth of the trees in the more open 
orchard rows may be expected to fully compensate for 
one or two years more of growth in crowded nursery 
rows. (5) Something will also be saved in the cost of 
the trees and in the expense of transportation, as well 
as in the labor of planting. 
If older or high-branched trees are not objected to, it 
will usually be found that they are but imperfectly 
branched from having been grown in crowded rows. 
9. Preparation of the soil.-when the late Dr. John 
A. Warder was asked how large the holes should be 
dug for planting orchard trees, he replied, "of the 
full size of the orchard;" and it may also be remarked 
that when the ground for an orchard has been well 
tilled and fertilized to a depth at least equal to that 
at which trees are to be planted, there is no longer 
occasion for holes larger than shall be necessary to re- 
ceive the roots in their proper position. If the subsoil 
be not freely pervious to water the ground must be 
deeply and thoroughly underdrained, and in no case 
79 
should the hole in which a tree is to be planted be sunk 
into a subsoil so impervious as to retain water beneath 
or about its roots. If such retentive subsoil occurs too 
near the surface, and is not considered suitable to be 
mixed with the surface soil, it should be thoroughly 
disintegrated to the requisite depth by means of a 
subsoil plow or other equivalent device. In all nearly 
level, retentive soils, it will be found advantageous to 
"back-furrow" a land along the line of each row in 
the direction of the surface drainage, so that when the 
trees have been planted the drainage will be away from 
them. 
10. Laying Out, Staking and planting.-the most 
economical mode of laying out and planting an orchard, 
so far as space is concerned, is doubtless that com- 
monly, but erroneously, designated as quincunx, and 
more correctly as hexagonal; but whether planted thus 
or in rectangles, the work may be most rapidly and ac 
curately done by planting a stake where each tree is t( 
stand, and using what is known as a planting board 
consisting of a strip of board 6 or 7 feet long, with a 
hole for a stake near each end, and a notch or slot in 
termediate and in line between them to receive the 
stake, and to support the tree while the earth is being 
carefully filled in under, among and above its roots. 
1688. anjou, one of the popular late fall and early winter 
Pears (X vo). (See page 1243.) 
The following are good general rules to be observed 
in the digging, handling, preparing and planting of 
trees : 
1st. In digging trees aim to secure as many of the 
main fibrous roots as possible. 
2d. Expose the roots as little as possible to the dry- 
ing influence of sun and wind. 
3d. Prepare the roots for planting by cutting away 
the bruised and broken portions. 
4th. If the roots have been essentially shortened in 
lifting, cut away the superfluous branches and also cut 
back such as are to remain till a proper balance of root 
and top is secured. 
5th. In heavy, retentive soil, plant the tree very little 
if any deeper than it stood in the nursery, and, in addi- 
tion, raise a slight mound about the trunk to avoid the 
occurrence of standing water at that point. 
6th. In strong but dry soil, a tree may be planted an 
inch or two deeper than it stood in the nursery. 
7th. In light sand, with dry subsoil, a tree should be 
planted 3 or even 4 inches deeper than it stood in the 
nursery. 
