1254 
common 
common orchard trees were rarely successful, and the 
opinion became prevalent that this species could not be 
budded or grafted. Various devices for propagating 
by layers, by upturned roots and root-cuttings were 
suggested and tested at different times, but none of 
these proved of permanent value. 
The first really successful work in graft-propagation 
seems to have been by crown-grafting on pecan stocks. 
This is most commonly practiced in early spring on 
stocks in place, having a crown diameter of from 1 inch 
to 2 or 3 inches. The stock should be cut off smoothly 
at the crown and grafted either by splice, or side-cleft 
graft, according to size of stock. Cions with terminal 
buds are preferable, and they should in all cases be so cut 
that but one scarf exposes the pith. In this method no 
wax is used, but the grafted stump is carefully mounded 
up with moist earth to the top bud of the cion, to 
prevent drying out. In the humid and mild climate of 
the Gulf states, this is probably the most promising 
method for the inexperienced amateur. bench-splice 
root-grafting on 6-inch top sections of one-year-old seed- 
lings has been fairly successful in some cases, but 
grafts set on lower sections of root are not considered 
worthy of planting out. Annular budding on the new 
wood of second-year seedlings yields a considerable 
proportion of success when favorable climatic condi- 
tions prevail, but in unfavorable seasons, as of extreme 
drought or heavy rainfall, it results in almost total fail- 
ure even with expert operators. 
Top-working of the Pecan is generally difficult, only 
a small percentage of success usually being obtained 
with any method. on young trees of Pecan, Water 
Hickory (H. aquatica) or mocker nut (h. alba), not 
exceeding one inch in diameter, occasional success by 
splice-grafting is obtained in Florida. Diagonal side- 
grafting on various hickory stocks is also occasionally 
successful in Florida, but no orchards of commercial 
importance have as' yet resulted from any of these 
methods of propagation. 
The most promising results in the top-working of 
Pecan trees that have yet been obtained are probably 
those of E. E. risien, San Saba, Texas, who finds annu- 
lar budding in June or July of strong shoots of the 
growth of the current season the best method. An 
abundant crop of such shoots is secured by cutting 
back the trees severely in March, using a cross-cut saw 
if necessary, as is sometimes the case on large trees. 
If the tree is old and the bark hard, the pushing of buds 
is stimulated by hacking the bark of the stubbed trunk 
PECAN 
and branches with a hatchet. The budding is done 
when the shoots attain the size of an ordinary lead pen- 
cil. Budding done on dry days is found to yield much 
the best results, especially if followed by several days 
of dry weather. The cions must be thoroughly pro- 
tected against drying out between removal from the 
tree and budding, however; and the "tying in," for 
which strips of old cotton cloth are used in preference 
to stronger material, must be thoroughly done, to insure 
success. When all conditions are favorable, thrifty 
seedling trees are quickly transformed to choice varie- 
ties in this way, and begin to bear good crops within 
three or four years after the operation is performed. 
Fig. 1694 shows such a tree during the fourth season 
after budding. The tin guards about the trunks are 
found necessary in that section to protect both young 
nuts and tender shoots from destruction by squirrels 
during the summer. 
Distance, method of planting, and cultivation. -from 
its large size it is clear that the Pecan should not be 
crowded. Most of the orchards planted have been at 
distances of 40 or 50 feet, but experience would indicate 
that 60 feet is a safer distance. Where seedling trees 
are depended upon it is probably advisable to plant 
closer together on the start, with a view to cutting 
out the trees bearing inferior nuts as soon as their true 
character is discovered. As at least half of the seed- 
lings of any given lot may be expected to yield nuts very 
much inferior in size to the seed planted, it is probably 
wise to plant about double the number that are desired 
as permanent trees. The subsequent thinning out will 
leave the trees irregularly placed, but until bud propa- 
gation of the species, both in nursery and orchard, is 
better understood and more successfully done than at 
present this is probably the safest and most economi- 
cal method for the orchard planter to adopt. In the 
earlier days many planters advocated and practiced 
planting the nuts where the trees were to remain in the 
orchard, usually planting two or three in a place to in- 
sure a "stand." The difficulty of protecting the young 
trees from injury and the consequent uneven character 
of the orchards have caused most of the later plantings 
to be made from the nursery row at the age of one or 
two years. If planted on strong and well-prepared soil 
to insure a vigorous growth the first season after re- 
moval to the orchard, one-year-old trees are probably 
preferable. The tap-root of the one-year-old Pecan tree 
is usually two or three times as long as the top, and 
more care in digging from the nursery rows is neces- 
sary than with most trees. No harm will result from 
a moderate shortening-in of the tap-root, however. In 
fact, the tree is probably benefited by the more spread- 
ing root system that results from this practice. 
If the nuts are to be planted either in nursery row or 
orchard they should, if of valuable varieties, be stratified 
in sand during the winter and planted out as early in 
spring as the ground can be worked. If of common 
sorts or in regions where mice and squirrels do not 
abound, they may safely be planted in well-drained soil 
before winter sets in. Ordinary nursery cultivation will 
usually suffice, but nothing necessary to insure a strong 
and vigorous growth the first season should be left 
undone. Digging from nursery row is most easily done 
with a horse tree-digger which cuts the roots at a suf- 
ficient depth to avoid injuring the trees. 
The soil for orchard planting should be thoroughly 
prepared, and, if not naturally rich, should be well fer- 
tilized with well-rotted stable manure or some fertilizer 
rich in available nitrogen. Much depends upon securing 
a strong growth of both root and top the first year after 
transplanting. If proper care is taken to cultivate and 
fertilize the trees they are probably not injured by crop- 
ping with ordinary hoed crops for four or five years, 
especially if occasional leguminous crops, like crimson 
clover, cow pea or velvet bean, are plowed in. after 
trees reach maturity in thrifty condition, cultivation is 
probably less important, though some of the most pro- 
ductive trees reported are in fields regularly planted 
with cultivated crops. 
harvesting and marketing . - the common method of 
harvesting is to gather the nuts at intervals of a few 
days as they fall, sometimes hastening the dropping by 
beating the bunches lightly with bamboo or other light 
