PROPAGATION 39 



size, the objection to large size being that the cuttings do not 

 root as well. Short-jointed wood is better than long-jointed. 

 Cuttings from vines weakened by insects and fungi are liable 

 to be w r eak, soft, immature and poorly stored with food. The 

 wood should be smooth and straight. 



Making the cutting. 



Grape cuttings vary in length from four inches to two feet, 

 the length depending on the climate and the soil of the nursery 

 and the species and variety. The hotter and drier the climate 

 and the lighter the soil, the longer the cutting needs to be. 

 Six to nine inches, however, is the usual length in the climate 

 of eastern America, while on the Pacific slope the length varies 

 from eight to fifteen inches. For convenience in handling, 

 all cuttings should be approximately of the same length, to 

 insure which some kind of simple gauge is needed. Various 

 gauges are used, as marks cut in the working table, a stick of 

 the required length, or a cutting-box. 



In making the cuttings, a slanting cut is made close below 

 the lowest bud, while about an inch of wood is left above the 

 upper bud. When possible, a heel of old wood is left at the 

 lower end ; or, still better, a whorl of buds, as roots usually 

 start from each bud. The finished cuttings are tied in bundles, 

 all butts one way, and are then ready to be heeled-in. This is 

 done by burying in trenches, butts up, and covering with a few 

 inches of soil. It is important to invert the cuttings in trench- 

 ing, since otherwise the tops often start to grow before the butts 

 are properly calloused, and it is very essential that the tops 

 remain dormant until roots appear to support the new growth. 



Planting the cuttings. 



Cuttings are planted in the nursery in rows wide enough 

 apart for cultivation and two or three inches apart in the row. 

 Trenches are made with a plow ; perpendicular if the cuttings 



