THE LANCASTER FARMER. 



69 



known breeder of finii stock has offered $-25,- 

 OUO for the heifer and calf. Mr. Mitchell says 

 that he has also been offered $10,000 for the 

 calf alone. Both offers have been declined. 

 Jamaica's first offspring was a bull calf, and 

 it was purchased by Mr. C. C. Smith, a neigh- 

 bor, at a small price. Since the great yield of 

 its mother, Mr. Smith has declined *11,000 

 for the yearling bull. 



IMITATION BUTTER. 

 The New York State Senate committee 

 which has been investigating adulterations of 

 food, says in its report that it has discovered 

 alarming wholesale adulterations, which are 

 dangerous to the customer and which are de- 

 preciating property in the rural districts. The 

 adulteration of butter by tallow oil, bone oil, 

 and lard oil was found in almost every town 

 and city in the State and in an amount which 

 equals half the production of the natural 

 article. The imitation is so disguised that 

 often it can only be detected by chemical 

 analysis. Out of thirty samples of alleged 

 butter purchased by the committee in New 

 York only ten were genuine. 



No labels to distinguish the pure from the 

 bogus butter are displayed, as required by the 

 existing law. Bogus buttar is largely pur- 

 chased by saloons, boarding houses and 

 second-class hotels. The poorer qualities of 

 bogus butter sell for from twenty cents to 

 thirty cents to laboring men, and the best 

 grades at forty or forty-five cents. The cost 

 of manufacture ranges from twelve to eighteen 

 cents, the average being fourteen cents. The 

 manufacture in New York State is chielly 

 carried ou in New York and Brooklyn, sev- 

 eral concerns manufacturing over 3,000,000 

 pounds each out of fat brought from the 

 West, from France, and from Italy. The 

 bulk of the bogus butter is manufactured in 

 the "West and sold in New York to the 

 detriment of the State's dairy interests. 

 Many dairy farmers have been driven 

 out of business in consequence. The loss to 

 the State is estimated at from 85,000,000 to 

 $10,000,000 yearly. The committee estimates 

 that 40,000,000 pounds of the product are sold 

 annually in the State, and the illegitimate 

 business is breaking our export butter trade. 

 The effect of the deception in the trade is 

 deleterious to business morals. Butterine can 

 be sold at eighteen cents less than natural 

 butter. 



The committee quote extensively from the 

 evidence obtained to show the evil, moral, 

 commercial and sanitary eflects of adultera- 

 tions. The use of nitric and sulphuric acids 

 in deodorizing adulterated butter is particu- 

 larly condemned. The committee recom- 

 mends the total prohibition, alter a given 

 time, of the manufacture and sale of all but- 

 ter adulterations. The committee also finds 

 200,000 out of the 500,000 quarts of milk fur- 

 nished to New York daily in 18S2 were water 

 or skim milk. The committee recommends 

 the appointment of a State inspector ot milk, 

 and also recommends that the officials to be 

 chosen to enforce the anti-adulteration laws 

 be selected from and represent dairy interests. 

 Accompanying the report was a bill by the 

 committee. It prohibits under penalty of $200 

 fine, or six months' imprisonment, the sale of 

 adulterated milk, the keeping of cows for the 



production of milk in an unhealthy condition, 

 and the diluting of mHk with water. It pro- 

 vides that every manufacturer of butter shall 

 brand his name and the weight of the butter 

 ou the package. Cans for the sale of milk 

 shall be stami)ed with the name of the county 

 where the milk is produced, unless sold ex- 

 clusively in the county. A penalty of from 

 $500 to $1,000 and imprisonment for one year 

 is imposed on the sale or manufacture of 

 bogus butter or cheese. The State Dairymen's 

 Association is appointed a commission to en- 

 force the provisions of the bill, and 830,000 is 

 appropriated for the purpose. 



CHEESE IN GENERAL COOKERY. 



The Popular Science Monthly is copying 

 from the British periodical "A'nowW^e" a 

 series of articles, by W. Mattieu "William.s, on 

 "The Chemistry of Cooking," presenting a 

 number of rather novel ideas that seem to 

 deserve the consideration of housewives. We 

 have made one or two brief extracts already, 

 and copy below some directions for the use of 

 cheese in dishes in which it is not often ex- 

 pected : 



My first acquaintance with the rational 

 cookery of cheese was in 1.S42, when I dined 

 with the monks of St. Bernard. Being the 

 only guest, I was the first to be supplied with 

 soup, and then came a dish of grated cheese. 

 Being young and bashful, I was ashamed to 

 display my ignorance by asking what I was to 

 do with the cheese, but made a bold dash, 

 nevertheless, and sprinkled some of it into my 

 soup. I then learned that my guess was 

 quite correct ; the prior and the monks did 

 the same. 



On walking on to Italy, I learned that 

 there such use of cheese is universal. Mines- 

 tra without Parmesan would there be regard- 

 ed as we in England should regard muflins 

 and crumpets without butter. During the 

 forty years that have elapsed since my first 

 sojourn in Italy, my sympathies are continu- 

 ally lacerated when I contemplate the melan- 

 choly spectacle of human beings eating thin 

 soup without any grated cheese. 



Not only in soups, but in many other 

 dishes, it is similarly used. As an example, I 

 may name "Risotto a la Milanese," a deli- 

 cious, wholesome, and economical dish — a 

 sort of stew compo.sed of rice and the giblets 

 of fowls, usually charged about twopence to 

 threepence per portion at Italian restaur- 

 ants. This is always served with grated Par- 

 mesan. The same with the many varieties of 

 paste, of which maccaroni and vermicelli are 

 the best known in this country. 



In all these the cheese is sprinkled over, 

 and then stirred into the .soup, etc., while it 

 is hot. The cheese, being finely divided, is 

 fused at once, and, being fused in liquid, is 

 thus delicately cooked. This is quite differ- 

 ent from the " maccaroni cheese " commonly 

 prepared in England by depositing maccaroni 

 in a pie-dish, and then covering it with a 

 stratum of grated cheese, and placing this in 

 an oven or before a fire until the cheese is 

 desiccated, browned, and converted into a 

 horny, caseous form of carbon that would in- 

 duce chronic dyspepsia in the stomach of a 

 wild boar if he fed upon it for a week. In all 

 preparations of Italian pastes, risottos, purees, 

 etc., the cheese is intimately niLxed through- 



out, and softened and diffused thereby in the 

 manner above described, * * * 



I have now to communicate another result 

 of my cheese-cooking researches, viz., a new 

 dish— c/^ec.se porridge — or, I may say, a new 

 class of dishes— cheese porridges. They are 

 not intended for eijicures, not for swine who 

 only live to eat, but for men and women who 

 eat in order to live and work. These com- 

 binations of cheese are more especially fitted 

 for those whose work is muscular, and who 

 work in the open air. Sedentary brain-work- 

 ers like myself should use them carefully, lest 

 they sutler from over-nutrition, which is but a 

 few degrees worse than partial starvation. 



Typical cheese-porridge is ordinary oatmeal 

 porridge made in the usual manner, but to 

 which grated cheese is added, either while in 

 the cookery pot or after it is taken out, and 

 yet as hot as possible. It should be sprinkled 

 gradually and well stirred in. 



Another kind of cheese-porridge or cheese- 

 pudding is made by adding to baked potatoes 

 —the potatoes to be taken out of their skins 

 and well mashed while the grated cheese is 

 springled and intermingled. A little milk 

 may or may not be added, according to taste 

 and convenience. This is better suited for 

 whose occupations are sedentary, potatoes be- 

 ing less nutritious and more easily digested 

 than oatmeal. They are chiefly composed of 

 starch, which is a heat-giver or fattener, 

 while the cheese is highly nitrogenous, and 

 supplies the elements in which the potato is 

 deficient, the two together forming a fair ap- 

 proach to the theoretically demanded balance 

 of constituents. * * * 



Hasty-pudding made, as usual, of wheat 

 flour, may be converted from an insipid to a 

 savory and highly nutritious porridge by the 

 addition of cheese in like manner. The same 

 with boiled rice, whether whole or ground, 

 also sago, tapioca, and other forms of edible 

 starch. Supposing whole rice is used, and I 

 think this the best, the cheese may be 

 sprinkled among the grains of rice and well 

 stirred or mashed up with them. The addi- 

 tion of a little brown gravy to this gives us an 

 Italian risotto. 



I might enumerate other methods of cook- 

 ing cheese by thus adding it in a finely divided 

 state to other kinds of food, but if I were to 

 express my own convictions on the subject I 

 should stir up prejudice by naming some mix- 

 tures which some people would denounce. As 

 an example I may refer to a dish which I in- 

 vented more than twenty years ago, viz., fish 

 and cheese pudding, made by taking the re- 

 mains from a dish of boiled codfish, haddock, 

 or other ickile fish, mashing it with bread- 

 crumbs, grated cheese, and ketchup, then 

 warming in an oven and serving after the ' 

 usual manner of scalloped fish. I frequently 

 add grated cheese to boiled fish as ordinarily 

 served, and have lately made a fish sauce by 

 dissolving grated cheese in milk with the aid 

 of a little bicarbonate of potash. 



A FRUIT ALL MAY RAISE. 



Many farmers dislike "to take up a new 

 place," because it requires so long a time to 

 bring fruit trees, bushes and vines into bear- 

 ing. Most tenant farmers get along without 

 fruit for the reason that none is produced on 

 the farms they rent, and having only short 



