20 



Our first work is to remove the follower that occupies the space between the frames 

 and the side of the hive. Very probably it will be glued to the frames with propolis, 

 so we insert the hive-tool between frame and follower, pushing aside the bees gently if 

 in the way, then with easy pressure we pry the board apart from the frame, first at one 

 end and then at the other. The follower is now removed from the hive and set to one 

 side, or at the end of the hive. We can now reach the first frame, which is apt to be 

 clear of bees, excepting from May to September. As before, we break the glue adhesion 

 with the hive-tool, then lift the frame with both hands, one at each end bar. Should 

 bees be clustered where the fingers will grasp the top bar, then gently pufi" a little 

 smoke on them and they will quickly scurry away. Remember it is such little tricks 



Fig. 9. 



Showing Frames. 



as these that make hive manipulation easy and prevent the bees becoming ill-tempered. 

 Lift the frame straight up, with your back to the sun, and proceed to examine it. 

 Fig 10 shows the operatioii. 



The frame we find is matle of four pieces of wood, known as top bar, bottom bar, 

 an<l end l)arH. The first is 18§ iru^hes long, the second is 17§ inches, while the other 

 two will be alxmt 8^ inches, dej)ending on the thickness of the top bar. The full depth 

 of the frame is 9^^ inches. The projecting ends of the top bar rest upon rabbets 

 cut into the end pieces of the hive. The frame proper, it should be specially 

 noted, is g inch shorter than the inside length of the hive body, so that between 

 the ends of the frame and the hive there is a space of a little over J inch. 



