41 



of the comb, starting at one end of the frame and working to the other, vising a kind of 

 saw motion, as in cutting bread. The frame is stood endways on a support, the upper 

 end of the top-bar being grasped by the left hand. Some workers cut upwards, tilting 

 the frame away from their body, so that the slice will hang clear of the comb as it is 

 cut. Others prefer cutting downwards and appear to have no trouble with the 

 cappings ; these are caught in a vessel below. The uncapped combs go into the baskets 

 of the extractor, one to each ; the handle is turned swiftly for a few minutes, thuB 

 emptying the outside cells ; the frames are reversed, then the other side is freed of 

 honey. The faster the baskets travel the more efficient will be the work of the 

 machine. Just a word of warning to a beginner. Do not worry if you cannot see lots 

 of honey after you have run through the first pair of combs, for remember it is spread 

 very thinly over a large surface, but in a little while it will gather in the bottom of the 

 can. The set of empty combs should be returned to their former position on the hive 

 for a night, to be cleaned up by the bees, then stored away until wanted next season. 



The uncapping device should be so made that it will give the cappings a chance to 

 drain. In a small way one can use a large pail in which is set a cheap barrel, in the 

 bottom of which a number of inch holes have been bored. Next take a piece of 

 1 X 4-inch wood a little longer than the barrel is wide, and through the middle of it 

 drive a strong nail that will project an inch at least. Sharpen this point with a file. 

 Fasten this board across the mouth of the barrel, nail point up. During uncapping 

 rest the end bar on the point of the nail. The cappings will drop into the barrel and 

 drain into the pail below. What to do with the wax will be told later. 



The impurities present in extracted honey consist of fragments of wax, pollen, 

 parts of bees, such as wing or leg, also occasionally a few larvae. The first mentioned 

 are all lighter than honey, so will in time rise to the surface ; so in the case of a small 

 run the honey may be allowed to stand in the machine for a day before it is drawn off. 

 A piece of clean, strong muslin tied over the faucet makes a good strainer. 



Bulk-extracted honey is generally stored in cans. The chief point to remember is, 

 seal the can tight to keep the aroma in and moisture out. Honey absorbs moisture 

 from the atmosphere, becomes thin as a consequence, then ferments and turns sour. 

 In air-tight vessels well-ripened extracted honey will keep for many years. 



Most honeys granulate — that is, candy — in a little while. To liquify, set the can in 

 a dish of water on the stove, but with pieces of wood between the can and the bottom 

 of the vessel. Melting is slow, but if there be no hurry it is a good plan to leave the 

 can of honey above the water-tank that is found in most stoves. Of course, the can- 

 cover should be loosened. 



Honey that has been melted does not granulate so quickly as at first. The higher 

 the temperature to which it is raised the longer will it remain liquid, but if made too 

 hot the colour will change to amber. The average buyer of honey in small quantities 

 does not like to be bothered with the melting of it ; therefore, it is a good plan, before 

 putting the honey into jars, to bring it to a temperature of 150° to 160°, never more 

 than the latter. 



