THE TOUR 317 



way and hide. It was also a matter of wonder to 

 me why they should so frequent this spot, and still more 

 what in it they could find to subsist on, for the whole 

 space about was nothing but . stones, rock, sand, or 

 boulders. 



Our encamping-ground, though in the midst of the 

 wildest of mountains, was not so solitary as might have 

 been expected. There was a police-station close by, 

 and also one or two sheds occupied by dealers in pro- 

 visions ; for the pass is much frequented, and most of 

 the travellers who go through it halt here for the night. 

 From a point not far off the Doon can be seen, and as 

 there was still some daylight remaining, I strolled along 

 the footpath that led to the point to take a farewell look. 

 The head policeman accompanied me. From the point 

 only the further slopes of the Doon were visible, and 

 over these the shadows were stealing. The view, all 

 forest and mountain, when seen thus was rather dreary. 

 A few white peaks of the far-away snowy range a little 

 relieved it. These could be seen through that vast gap 

 in the lower ranges along the bottom of which the river 

 Jumna flows. 



By the time I returned to the camping-ground the 

 tents had been pitched, and many travellers had arrived 

 with carts, cattle, and ponies. The little halting-place 

 had quite a cheerful aspect. Among the other travellers 

 was a fakir. He presently came up to where I was 

 standing, made his salaam, and addressed me ; he was 

 a young man, and for a fakir he looked clean and 

 respectable. Moreover, as soon as he spoke I perceived 

 that he was educated. Before long he told me his story. 



