192 NEW ZEALAND CHAP, vm 



In our walks we met with many houses in the valleys 

 that seemed to be quite deserted. The people lived on the 

 ridges of hills in very slightly-built houses, or rather sheds. 

 For what reason they have left the valleys we can only 

 guess, maybe for air, but if so they purchase that con- 

 venience at a dear rate, as all their fishing tackle and lobster 

 pots, of which they have many, must be brought up with 

 no small labour. 



"We saw also an extraordinary natural curiosity. In pur- 

 suing a valley bounded on each side by steep hills, we 

 suddenly saw a most noble arch or cavern through the face 

 of a rock leading directly to the sea, so that through it we 

 had not only a view of the bay and hills on the other side, 

 but an opportunity of imagining a ship or any other grand 

 object opposite to it. It was certainly the most magnificent 

 surprise I have ever met with ; so much is pure nature 

 superior to art in these cases. I have seen such places 

 made by art, where from an inland view you were led 

 through an arch 6 feet wide, and 7 feet high, to a prospect 

 of the sea ; but here was an arch 2 5 yards in length, 

 9 in breadth, and at least 15 in height. 



In the evening we returned to the watering-place, in order 

 to go on board with our treasure of plants, birds, etc., but were 

 prevented by an old man who detained us some time in show- 

 ing us their exercises with arms, lances, and patoo patoos. The 

 lance is made of a hard wood, from 10 to 14 feet long, 

 and very sharp at the ends. A stick was set up as an 

 enemy ; to this he advanced with a most furious aspect, 

 brandishing his lance, which he held with great firmness ; 

 after some time he ran at the stick, and, supposing it a 

 man run through the body, immediately fell upon the upper 

 end of it, dealing it most merciless blows with his patoo 

 patoo, any one of which would have probably split most 

 skulls. From this I should conclude that they give no 

 quarter. 



25th. Went ashore this morning and renewed our 

 search for plants, etc., with great success. In the mean- 

 time Tupia, who stayed with the waterers, had much conver- 



