264 THE LAND OF THE LION 



dark, this fine, shy buck comes down out of the upper 

 thickets, and ventures into the green glades that everywhere 

 border these pretty mountain brooks. I counted no less 

 than sixteen bush-buck during one short morning's walk. 

 They were unharmed by me as I had already secured 

 good heads on the Nzoia. 



There is one drawback to the foot of the Aberdare as 

 a hunting ground, it is generally bitterly cold there. The 

 mountain winds seem to be drawn down along the sharp 

 edges of its ramparts, and the shivering sefaris always call 

 it "Ber&a" (cold) camp. The equatorial line here crosses 

 the swamp and it is a strange experience to wrap yourself 

 in the heaviest overcoat you possess and seat yourself by 

 a roaring fire, exactly under the Equator! 



One of the chief charms of Embellossett is the bird 

 life that everywhere within it breeds and lives quite 

 undisturbed. Here above all other places can the naturalist 

 study the aquatic birds of the continent. In vast numbers 

 and in great variety they are here. I used to take my 

 glasses and sit by the water's edge in the evening, while 

 flocks innumerable, dabbling, diving, swimming, would 

 come before me. Some parent birds were just guiding 

 their little downy balls of fluff out of the nests, for a first 

 swim; others led forth broods almost fledged, none seemed 

 afraid and this I think is remarkable. 



When the chase of hippo proved hopeless, I watched 

 the water fowl a great deal. Not once in a long afternoon 

 could I catch any sight of so much as one bird of prey, 

 no eagle or hawk disturbed the mother birds as boldly into 

 the open water they led their countless broods. Land life 

 has many an enemy, water life seemed there to have none. 



Beyond Embellossett we enter Massai land, where 

 till three years ago no one might come. It says much, 

 surely, for English influence it is scarcely fair to call 

 it rule (for the civil and military officials are a mere hand- 



