GARDEN OPERATIONS 17 



and use of two colors or combinations, such as pink and blue (light), cream 

 and purple, golden yellow and deep blue, or orange and medium blue; or 

 a gradual blending down from an intense color, using several intermediate 

 shades. The yellow and orange shades always look weU and if separated 

 in good, generous blocks, cannot help but be effective. Blocks of white 

 flowers or green ornamental foliage will act as a foil where it is necessary 

 to use strong colors in heavy masses, reds and scarlets for example, that is 

 if both meet the eye at the same time. The blue Delphiniums, white and 

 pink Hollyhocks afford an example of good tones, but keep the reds and 

 maroons away. Gypsophila and purple Delphinium form an esthetic 

 combination. Place Golden Coreopsis against heavy foliage and deep 

 shadows. Plant Foxgloves among an underground of dwarfer material or 

 among evergreens in g roups. The composite flowers offer many delightful 

 combinations. One cannot err in their use, as the colors, for the most part, 

 can be caUed relative or harmonious. Examples include Heliopsis and 

 CalUmeris incisa, Stokesia and Shasta Daisy. These can be used also with 

 Golden Anthemis. Rudbeckia purpurea and Rudbeckia fulgida or sub- 

 tomentosa harmonize, and so on "ad infinitum." GoUections of Phlox 

 show off to much advantage if separated as to color, the scarlets from the 

 magentas and the pinks from the purples. Use the white forms between." 



Whole books have been written deahng with color in the garden, 

 but these few remarks must sufTice. Plan a special color garden if your 

 fancy tells you to do so. In any case, avoid buying mixtures of flower 

 seeds; buy packets of colors which harmonize and make your own 

 mixture. Avoid variegated flowers; they appear muddy in the distance. 

 Avoid combining the various reds — the scarlets with the crimsons — 

 unless separated by masses of white flowers or foliage. 



GARDEN OPERATIONS 



NOTHING without labor" is the motto of the garden, although 

 it is true that some perennials require but little care. He who 

 loves the garden enough does not think of the labor but remem- 

 bers only the triumph of having lusty, flowering plants. He prepares 

 his soil properly, realizing that the camouflage of having a good surface 

 soil, but a poor soil beneath, fools persons but not plants. He talks 

 little about the bugs; he sprays them. 



PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 



Perennials must remain rather permanently in one place and for 

 this reason, if for no other, the soil should be deeply and thoroughly 

 prepared. UsuaUy good soil extends down only about a foot, yet many 

 of our perennials are deep rooting. For example, the leguminous and 

 the mallow plants prefer to strike downward. Most of our plants will 

 sufl'er less from drought in Midsummer if the roots are in the cool, 



