FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE HIMALAYAN FOREST 3 



safety. It was considered in those days quite luxurious. 

 The traveller's light portmanteaux were borne by hahangi 

 wallahs, who accompanied the dak, swung at each end 

 of the bahangi, an elastic yoke of split bamboo, across its 

 bearer's shoulder. In these days of railway travelling, 

 with sleeping and dining cars and every modem improve- 

 ment, the comfort of the passenger may be superior, but 

 he does not gain any experience of the country he passes 

 rapidly through. He scarcely sees the scenery, and has 

 often not an idea what the physical character of the land 

 is like, or the people inhabiting it. His eye dwells more 

 on the pattern of the lining of the railway carriages than 

 the beauties of nature, and his ear, instead of receiving 

 the new sounds of interest afforded by the language of 

 the natives, becomes weary of the steam whistle and the 

 invitation to feed of the cosmopolitan waiter. To have 

 travelled through India in the old ways, by dooly dak, 

 gharry dak, and bullock-train, not to speak of marching 

 and the more rapid post -cart, is an experience worth 

 having gone through. These thoroughly Indian methods 

 of locomotion, the only ones in John Company's days, 

 were no doubt tedious and fuU of discomfort ; but the 

 pleasure and excitement of seeing a new country on the 

 same level as its inhabitants, and in the true Oriental 

 manner customary in India from times immemorial, leave 

 an impression of interest on the mind never afterwards 

 effaced. 



The breaking of the glorious day in India after such a 

 night of darkness and uncertainty is a pleasant relief. 

 Weariness and relaxation rapidly give way to freshness 

 and a feeling of exhilaration as the crisp morning air is 

 felt, and the Hght rapidly increases till the sun makes its 

 way upwards. The first glimpse of the great wall of 

 forest-clad mountains is obtained through the long vista 



I — 2 



