8 THE FORESTS OF UPPER INDIA 



His whole aspect and colouring are in the worst of taste, 

 and he succeeds in being amusing without intending it in 

 the least. 



The sturdy, sure-footed pony struggles on gallantly 

 upwards, with occasional halts to graze for a bit on the 

 patches of real green herbage, which become more fre- 

 quent as the forest is left behind, and the hills become 

 barer and more precipitous ; yet still the chffs tower higher, 

 and another appears against the sky as if the summit 

 would never be reached. The rock becomes shaly and 

 disintegrated, and looks as if the mountain was ready to 

 topple down into the abyss below. One great landslip 

 has already occurred, where at least a thousand feet of 

 the precipice have gone down, leaving an awful gash in 

 the mountain breast, where parti-coloured strata are laid 

 bare sloping at a high angle against the sky, blocking up 

 the khud below with acres of confused ruin. The path 

 zigzags frantically towards a gap in the overhanging cliffs, 

 and at length emerges on the ghat, when the scene suddenly 

 changes and the path begins to descend through forests 

 of oak and rhododendron into the peaceful valley of Naini 

 Tal. Presently glimpses are obtained of the shining green 

 waters of the lake, and pretty, red-roofed bungalows and 

 an English church come into view. Cypresses* with 

 pointed feathery shapes clothe the circle of surrounding 

 hills, headed by the lofty peak of China Pahar. A wider 

 road rejoices in the familiar name of the Mall. Evening 

 closes rapidly. The traveller is directed to the hotel, and 

 his journey is at an end. 



To describe the well-known hill-station of Naini Tal 



would be superfluous in these days, when so many go to 



India and in India so many go to the hills. In the year 



1861, however, it was a much more primitive place than 



* Cupressus torulosa. 



