AMONG THE SNOW PEAKS 53 



The weather had been settled and hot for some time, and 

 a good many ascents had been made with survey instru- 

 ments and rifle, starting at daybreak and returning to 

 camp at nightfall. On this occasion it was determined 

 to ascend the great precipice which towered north of the 

 Rishi stream, and to remain out at night in order to ex- 

 plore still higher ground. Provisions and a kettle and 

 blankets were included in the impedimenta carried by 

 a strong hill-man. The shikari, Punoo, was a tall, 

 active native, clad in the hand-woven woollen coat 

 and trousers and cap of natural-wool colour, similar to 

 the colour of the rocks, usually worn by the villagers. 

 He possessed all the qualities of the best Swiss guides, 

 quick eyesight and an unfailing instinct as to the sur- 

 mounting of crags and taking advantage of the trend of 

 the strata and intervening grassy slopes and crevasses 

 in the rocks, to pass upwards where the precipice appeared 

 from below to be insurmountable. The summit was lost 

 to view, or stood out against the deep blue sky, towering 

 thousands of feet above the camp like a wall, almost 

 overhanging where the vertical strata were broken off. 

 A start was made after early tea, at about 4 a.m., in the 

 dark. At first the sheep tracks leading to some grassy 

 slopes were followed. The true pahari climbs with 

 deliberate steps, never hurrying or getting out of breath, 

 noiselessly choosing the best place for foothold on rock 

 or grass, never detaching a loose stone which would be 

 dangerous to those following him, balancing his weight 

 truly as he climbs, so as to make no false steps. Light 

 Enghsh shooting-boots well studded with nails are the 

 best for the work for those used to boots, though some 

 prefer grass shoes, which will not slip on rocks. The native 

 wears grass shoes or goes barefoot. Several thousands of 

 feet having been surmounted at about one thousand an 



