THE LAND OF THE HUNS 105 



To linger on this lofty ridge of the world, which we had 

 reached by such weeks of toilsome climbing, and wonder 

 at the greatness and appalling grandeur of the scene, was 

 an absolute necessity. A moment to be never forgotten, 

 and a position attained by a very few mortals. Turning 

 at last to follow the party now cheerfully trudging on the 

 downward slope, it was a delight to emerge into the bright 

 sunshine and warmth, and soon to descend from glacier 

 and dazzling snow on to solid ground and firm going, 

 where one could mount one's pony and start galloping 

 at once. Soon catching up the party, we proceeded gaily. 

 The order was given for no straggling. All to keep close 

 together, driving the yaks in front. Not a sign was to be 

 seen of the sixty Hunia horse-soldiers we were told had 

 been sent to stop us. We had evidently hoodwinked 

 the authorities on the frontier. We saw only the tracks 

 of a couple of horsemen who had recently been patrolling 

 the pass. The distant view was enchanting : a great 

 extent of gaily coloured rolling downs, with distant ranges 

 of hills standing in rows one after the other, with deep 

 blue shadows on their sides ; and north-east was a glorious 

 peaked snow mountain, with four subsidiary peaks show- 

 ing against the sky. This was the never explored Gurla 

 Mandhata, 25,500 feet high, where the snow line only com- 

 mences at about 19,000 feet elevation. 



In front of us to the north-west we could see something 

 like houses on top of a pointed hill, and the walls of a fort. 

 This was Taklakhar, the frontier military station and 

 fort, and seat of a large lamaserai. Coming to lower 

 lands where yak droppings lay about well baked in the 

 sun, we soon collected enough to light a fire and boil the 

 kettle and make tea, and sat down to an excellent break- 

 fast. Our khansamah and cook, who, being plainsmen, had 

 to be taken care of, had ridden most of the way on yaks, 



