no THE FORESTS OF UPPER INDIA 



committed an unfriendly act, to atone for which they 

 would be required to bring us fuel and supplies, for 

 which we would pay. 



The excitement having subsided, we soon pitched tents 

 on the flat place above the river, which ran in a deep 

 channel between beds of rock. 



The fort and town of Taklakhar was perched on a high 

 ridge or summit opposite, overhanging the Koriali river. 

 There was a zigzag path ascending from the base some 

 300 feet up the face of the cliff, protected by curtain walls ; 

 and above were some very high buildings with many 

 windows crowning the height, resembling somewhat an 

 Italian town and convent. There were many caves 

 to be seen in the face of the rock, which were said 

 to be caves of hermits or very holy lamas. Jussoo, 

 having gone to the town, soon returned with men bring- 

 ing flour and rice and firing, and peace seemed quite 

 restored. 



Next day we had a visit from the Zung-pun, the com- 

 mandant of the fort,* and soldiers under the Lhasa 

 Government. Also the ' Bara Lama,' or head of the 

 Lamaserai, a gentleman who seemed of much importance. 

 Mr. Drummond received them sitting inside the tent in a 

 chair, the symbol of the Indian Sirkar, while we sat round 

 him, and the Hunia gentlemen sat on the ground and our 

 two Bhotias at the tent door. They professed their 

 friendliness to the Indian Raj and the British sahibs, but 

 declared their inability to let us enter their country, 

 owing to strict orders from headquarters. They repeated 

 the story of the indiarubber boat and the profanation of 

 the sacred lake, and the consequent decapitation of the 

 previous Zung-pun. We declared that we did not desire 

 to offend their religious prejudices, and should on no 

 * Sometimes called Nirbah, oftener Zung-pun. 



